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Sleeping Beauty Wall
Routes Sorted
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Burly Wench, The S 
Cheshire Cat S 
Glass Coffin S 
Heather T 
Life O' Riley S 
Poison Apple S 
Prince Valiant S 
Sea Hag S 
Sleeping Beauty S 
Tarred and Feathered S 
Witch's Promise S 

The Burly Wench 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: EFR, Mary Rudy, Erik Murdock,'05
Page Views: 346
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on May 2, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Slab to bulge with pockets. A tad grungy in 2005 may be better now.

Location 

On the buttress between Life O Riley and Witches Promise

Protection 

Bolts


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By Eric Whitbeck
May 2, 2011

Why bolt a one star route?
By Chuck McQuade
From: Golden, CO
May 2, 2011

If this is the route Im thinking about its actually not that bad, Id give it 2 stars for sure and say its defiantly worth tieing in for.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 3, 2011

Erik Whitbeck wrote:
Why bolt a one star route?
No offense but, why not bolt the route smack in the middle of sport climbing area? It adds some variety, helps distribute crowds and offers another warm-up. One star is defined as "OK" and I've climbed many enjoyable one-star routes. If the FA folks have the time, energy and hardware, I believe it's a fine idea.
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 3, 2011

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!

;-)
By Eric Whitbeck
May 3, 2011

None taken. I just wonder how we can complain about human impact at the tower and yet we keep bolting and posting routes. You can not have it both ways.
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 3, 2011

It's easy Eric...we like to have our cake and eat it too...;-)

I am guilty of the same thing.

Some people like to go to an area that has a million routes where there are a million people on those million routes.

Call it "training" being social or whatever...these are the people bolting 1 star routes/squeeze jobs...you get the picture. Some people like crowds and don't mind waiting in line. I guess this is part of making a popular crag. I'm just calling it like it is...not passing any judgement.

The problem with this is the huge impact(dumps/trash/tp), you know what I'm talking about.

Think The Creek, Datil, El Rito, Las Conchas...the list goes on and on...

The only way to avoid this overcrowding/trashing of an area is just not to go there.

Go figure. Sure is a tough nut to crack isn't it?

I have chosen to go to places off the beaten track (cuz I don't really like people)...but this sure does increase the drive and ruin the convenience of it all.

Jeremy