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The Burl Master 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a [details]
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Submitted By: ---- on Apr 15, 2010
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The Burl Master is a major test in power endurance, with every move from start to finish being both athletic and strenuous. This route could serve as a stepping stone to the more notable hard routes at Smith. This is probably the funnest 5.13 at Smith, but you’ll have to deal with a little crumbly stone, unsightly epoxy, and a grueling 10 minute hike to the top of the gully.

This may sound lame, but I recommend stick clipping the third bolt. Start the Burl Master by summiting a two foot pile of cheater stones. Reach up to some good holds on the roof, cut your feet, and launch in to a short dynamic boulder problem. Top out this rather pointless boulder problem and get a full recovery before you enter the meat of the route.

Traverse left to the fifth bolt and execute a controlled dyno to a big slopey jug. Clip the sixth bolt and battle upward past a bad crimp with the aid of a mono intermediate. Try to shake out at the seventh bolt before embarking on a technical leftward traverse.

After the final draw is clipped you are basically just making your way up the wall on a series of good horizontal holds. One last left hand dynamic (crux) move gets you to a good jug and the route is in the bag at that point. There are several alternatives to doing the huck, but they are all hard, and probably not as fun or rewarding. So pound a couple red bulls and get psyched to commit to the last move.


This route is east facing at the top of the aggro gully. It is the obvious overhanging route that is undercut by a large cave. Use the trail on the left side of the gully to approach.


8 bolts + Anchors

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