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Vampire Rock
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Blood Doll 
Bureau (Pitch 1), The 
Crack of Desperation 
Fear of Sunlight 
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The 
Heart of the Narrows 
Le Stat 
Monkey's Sister 
Monkey's Uncle 
Pin Cushion 
Stage Fright 
That's Weak 
Trash It and Move On 
Vampire, The 

The Bureau (Pitch 1) 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Sangdahl & John Baldwin 1999
Page Views: 916
Submitted By: Aeon Aki on Jun 9, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Ian hucking for the jug off the awful sloper...
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>


The Bureau climbs the line of bolts left of Wanker. It is identified by the chain link hanging from the 3rd bolt.

Climb up the pillar to the first bolt and work your way into a sloping rail. A wild dyno gets you off of the sloper, but the fun doesn't stop as more 5.11 climbing guards the anchors. Lower from the first set of anchors or continue on to harder climbing. More info coming....


10 draws is plenty.

Photos of The Bureau (Pitch 1) Slideshow Add Photo
...and taking the ride after missing the jug.
...and taking the ride after missing the jug.
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By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Aug 28, 2009

Great route. Shady until late afternoon, and somewhat protected by rain from a roof above. I don't really dyno at the crux; I do more of a lieback off the terrible right sloper. It's important to lean left for the sloper to be effective. I then let go of the left undercling and statically--but quickly--get the jug rail above. The route is not long but I find it pumpy. This and Wanker P1 are my favorite pitches at Vampire. I'm not sure whence the name derives.