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 ADVANCED
The Appendage
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bulge, The S,TR 
Butterface S 
Crisco Crack T 
Edge, The T 
Full Appendage S,TR 
Lead S 
Ledge, The S,TR 
Only Wimps Top-rope the Bulge S 

The Bulge 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Knezek
Page Views: 2,772
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 17, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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One of my favorite climbs in Rock Canyon. Its a mu...

Description 

The right line on the right set of anchors. 6 bolts that will pull at your tendons. Very fun route, very pumpy. Length wasn't too bad, but what hurt this route is that you can use the right wall, in fact, it is a pain in the a$$ to not use that right wall, but that right wall hurts (lessens) the climb. The finish is also weird, with a very painful (sliced into my finger, painful) crack hold at the 6th bolt.


Protection 

6 bolts on the way to the chains.



Photos of The Bulge Slideshow Add Photo
Almost done
Almost done
A fun start
A fun start
Milking the rest
Milking the rest
The bulge
The bulge
Taking a rest on The Bulge
Taking a rest on The Bulge
Crux Time
Crux Time
At this point I was thinking, "wow, that was steep!"
At this point I was thinking, "wow, that was steep...
Comments on The Bulge Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 27, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 13, 2005

i dont get what you mean by "right wall". Stemming is off on this route.

By rx_7addict
Oct 26, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Anon was right. The route was established based on the side wall not being included. Climb straight up the bulge.

By Nathan Fisher
Oct 26, 2005

I wasn't too clear. What I was trying to say, was that it is hard to not use that wall during the beginning sequence. The angles force you to the right and it is actually more difficult to try to keep off of that wall, than it is to climb it. When I look at a cliff, I climb it with what I have at my disposal. It is not "natural" to say, "Don't use that wall, don't stem, or ignore every third handhold." Here is the cliff climb it. I understand that Darren's "line" is to not use it, but it just isn't natural.

By esallen
From: Utah / Nevada
Feb 9, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The Bulge is a great route. Short, powerful, well-protected, and fun. To each his own I guess.

Eric

By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Nov 27, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

hardest 11b i've ever done. i got it gasping at the top with streaming beta from my partner. man this thing is technical and requires some wide moves. the top 3 bolts is all the business. absolute must do. using the right wall for stemming is definitely off.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Aug 11, 2008

I think this is a super classic route. Big moves, big holds, big grunting noises as you try not to peel off... Fun!

By darrell hodges
Oct 21, 2008

I'm going to do this route and put my foot on the wall to the right the whole way up.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 12, 2009

I sneezed on the right wall...am I still ok?

By BJB
From: Austin, TX
Aug 3, 2011

I rarely go back to routes, but i've gone back and done this twice in less than a week, each time staying until it gets too dark for me to keep working it. There is just a really cool assortment of holds and moves on this route that you don't really find on others. There are sloper holds, arete slapping, a couple of crimps, a lie back crack, an undercling and the namesake bulge. I think it's a killer route. Really hard for an 11.b but a blast to do. I've done all the mountain project classics in RC and I think this is one of the most fun i've been on.

By Thomas Holmes
From: Utah
Mar 13, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Tough for the grade, and one of the best...

By Canyon Copa
May 29, 2012

This will pump you out in a matter of minutes. Really solid route with irregular holds and balancy moves as it tries to throw you off to the right.

By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
Aug 26, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Wow! Pumpy! Stay off the right wall for more of a challenge. It seems that getting the sequence down is the key to this wall. Getting through the first bit to a nice rest is tough, but pumps you out fast so that making the second half much harder due to a couple crimps before another nice rest. I couldn't stop thinking about this route for about a week after my first top-rope attempt. I topped out but it took quite awhile.

By Aaron Shields
From: Lehi, UT
Aug 2, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

There's no reason to try and stem off the wall if you use the gritty slopers and holds on the blunt arete (left) and the horns on the sharper arete (right). That makes for a great, powerful sequence and is way easier than hanging off the right side.

By Tim Moore
May 26, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The route is getting much harder with more and more people on the bottom especially as people climb it it so much. It's very slick limestone. A great pumpy route and using the edges are great to help with footwork. A tough little sequence from the last two bolts that is definitely the crux. No way to cheat around it as well. A fun little dyno near the bottom as well.

By zoso
May 26, 2014

Very slick limestone is quartzite.

Just an fyi.

By slim
Administrator
May 27, 2014

quartzite is metamorphosed sandstone. really slick limestone is just really slick limestone.

By zoso
May 27, 2014

Thanks.
I needed that.
My point is that the crag is quartzite.