Ok so I have a question for you prople out there. I am planning on going to the Bugs again and am worried about all the snow. Is it still possible to climb sunshine crack, energy crisis, and the Beckey-Chinuard? Is it worth going to the Bugs with all of the snow? I am thinking I might go to yosemite instead. Better to be hot and dry rather than cold and wet. Anyone been to either place recently?
Have at look at the ACMG mountain conditions report ( acmg.ca/mcr/archives.asp). This is from their July 14 summary:
"The unsettled summer weather continues with many guides agreeing that conditions are about 2 weeks or more behind average... Reports from the Bugaboos are that a number of routes are now climbable such as the Kain route on Bugaboo, the normal route on Snowpatch, and many routes in the Crescent Cirque. North facing routes like the NE Ridge of Bugaboo are likely not in good shape. Expect to deal with some snow and wet areas regardless of where you go. You will also need to deal with creek crossings on the approach trail and snow at Applebee."
I was there the first week of July, and all of the routes you listed were clear of snow and parties climbed them while we were there.
Some of the low angled climbs/descents not in the sun still had a bit of snow (like the Kain Route, West Ridge of Pigeon, etc), but all the steeper stuff and south facing routes were snow free. Snow was melting at faster than a foot a day, and it has been two weeks since I returned, so I imagine everything is doable now.
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