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Trojan Bunny Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bruise Collector, The S 
Bucket List, The T,S 
Dog Will Hunt S 
Europithacus S 
Fire On The Mountain T,S 
Lick My Plate T,S 
Pondemonium T,S 
Sonata T 
Streatch T,S 
Temptation Arete S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Bucket List 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bernard Gillett and Fred Knapp, 2008
Season: Late summer or early fall
Page Views: 845
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Sep 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This route starts 80 feet off the ground. Climb the right-hand (easier) version of Bruise Collector (step right six feet to another anchor) or climb Europithacus. Start with three bolts of desperate crimping on a high-angle slab-prow. Continue more easily up the shallow prow, placing small to medium cams in the dihedral to the right. Step right and climb a left-slanting intermittent crack (harder than it looks, so don't skip any pro) to reach the next bolt. Hard moves past this bolt gain a wild zigzagging line through roofs, passing three more bolts. This entire second crux is tricky, pumpy, and wild. Two raps to the ground.

I'll go with Bernard's 5.11a rating, but consider this an Eldo grade because this climb feels like a trad route despite seven bolts. If it were in Boulder Canyon, the grade might be considerably higher.

This is the best new pitch I've done on the Front Range in a year or two. A real testament to Mr. Gillett's vision and hard work.

Protection 

Seven bolts plus a rack from sub-finger to hand size. A couple of slings will reduce rope drag.


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By Bob Rotert
Oct 3, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I visited this cliff for the first time last weekend and was really impressed with the great climbing here. We did this route, and it is indeed wild and awesome! One of the best on the cliff. I followed this one, and it felt a little harder than 11- to me. I like the Boulder Canyon comment Dougal posted above. \;o) This would probably be 11d in Boulder Canyon.
By Bob Rotert
Sep 20, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Revisited and led this today. Either some thing has changed since the FA put an 11a rating on it or it was a sandbag to begin with. Really cool climbing! Seemed definitely harder than 11a.

Also, you have to do an 11c pitch to get to it.