|Trojan Bunny Buttress
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This route starts 80 feet off the ground. Climb the right-hand (easier) version of Bruise Collector (step right six feet to another anchor) or climb Europithacus. Start with three bolts of desperate crimping on a high-angle slab-prow. Continue more easily up the shallow prow, placing small to medium cams in the dihedral to the right. Step right and climb a left-slanting intermittent crack (harder than it looks, so don't skip any pro) to reach the next bolt. Hard moves past this bolt gain a wild zigzagging line through roofs, passing three more bolts. This entire second crux is tricky, pumpy, and wild. Two raps to the ground.
I'll go with Bernard's 5.11a rating, but consider this an Eldo grade because this climb feels like a trad route despite seven bolts. If it were in Boulder Canyon, the grade might be considerably higher.
This is the best new pitch I've done on the Front Range in a year or two. A real testament to Mr. Gillett's vision and hard work.
Seven bolts plus a rack from sub-finger to hand size. A couple of slings will reduce rope drag.
|By Bob Rotert|
Oct 3, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
I visited this cliff for the first time last weekend and was really impressed with the great climbing here. We did this route and it is indeed wild and awesome!! One of the best on the cliff. I followed this one and it felt a little harder than 11- to me. I like the Boulder Canyon comment above. \;o) This would probably be 11d in Boulder Canyon. LOL nice to see this cliff actually using the YDS rating system on some routes.