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Truman Tower
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Abandoned by Love T 
Buck Stops Here (AKA "The Truman Motto"), The T,S 
Truman Crack, The T 

The Buck Stops Here (AKA "The Truman Motto") 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 380'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Engle, Phinney, Archbold
Page Views: 489
Submitted By: Andy Busse on Nov 11, 2007

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Starting pitch 2

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Pitch 1: 5.11a
Start on the lowest pt of Truman Tower in a 10' crack. Follow the crack to the face past a couple of bolts trending up and right around a corner to gain a major crack that diagonals back to the left. Follow this crack to a ledge, belay here.

Pitch 2: 5.10
From the belay ledge follow the vertical crack up past the bulge through a series of parallel vertical cracks to gain a weakness below the headwall, follow this weakness and crack system up and left past a set of anchors and 1 bolt to major horn in a schist band.
(note that from the anchors the bolt is not visible, from the anchors follow the left crack up and left around the corner to gain a major ledge, follow the ledge up and left to a schist band and horn below the bolt line for pitch 3)

Pitch 3: 5.11b
From the horn clip the bolt directly above and move out right. Follow the bolt line up and right to the top of the formation. Bring a #1 Camalot for between the 3rd and 4th bolt. Belay in a cove that separates the minor formations.

Pitch 4: 5.9
Traverse out left around the bulge to a vertical crack system, follow this up past a major horn, then follow the crack up and back to the right. Exit and go for the summit.


Approach: park at the Emancipation/Inner Marker Pull-off, follow the trail that divides the two major formations for 250', then trend up right to the base of Truman Tower; (the major formation protruding from Emancipation, looker's left of White House Wall on the northwest side).

The route is on looker's right of Truman Tower

2 Rope Rappel
Summit down to horn at belay station top of pitch 2. Horn to the ground.


10 Quickdraws, Camalots (2x #.4-#4), Set of Stoppers, Double-length slings, 2x 60m Ropes for rappel

Photos of The Buck Stops Here (AKA "The Truman Motto") Slideshow Add Photo
Truman Tower, "The Buck Stops Here" AKA ...
Truman Tower, "The Buck Stops Here" AKA ...
Cali and Tony starting out the 4th pitch
Cali and Tony starting out the 4th pitch
Tony on pitch 4
Tony on pitch 4

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