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The Buck Stops Here (AKA "The Truman Motto")
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 6
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Routes in Truman Tower
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Abandoned by Love T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Buck Stops Here (AKA "The Truman Motto"), The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Truman Crack, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 380 ft (115 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Engle, Phinney, Archbold |
| Page Views: | 997 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Busse on Nov 11, 2007 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
Pitch 1: 5.11a
Start on the lowest pt of Truman Tower in a 10' crack. Follow the crack to the face past a couple of bolts trending up and right around a corner to gain a major crack that diagonals back to the left. Follow this crack to a ledge, belay here.
Pitch 2: 5.10
From the belay ledge follow the vertical crack up past the bulge through a series of parallel vertical cracks to gain a weakness below the headwall, follow this weakness and crack system up and left past a set of anchors and 1 bolt to major horn in a schist band.
(note that from the anchors the bolt is not visible, from the anchors follow the left crack up and left around the corner to gain a major ledge, follow the ledge up and left to a schist band and horn below the bolt line for pitch 3)
Pitch 3: 5.11b
From the horn clip the bolt directly above and move out right. Follow the bolt line up and right to the top of the formation. Bring a #1 Camalot for between the 3rd and 4th bolt. Belay in a cove that separates the minor formations.
Pitch 4: 5.9
Traverse out left around the bulge to a vertical crack system, follow this up past a major horn, then follow the crack up and back to the right. Exit and go for the summit.
Start on the lowest pt of Truman Tower in a 10' crack. Follow the crack to the face past a couple of bolts trending up and right around a corner to gain a major crack that diagonals back to the left. Follow this crack to a ledge, belay here.
Pitch 2: 5.10
From the belay ledge follow the vertical crack up past the bulge through a series of parallel vertical cracks to gain a weakness below the headwall, follow this weakness and crack system up and left past a set of anchors and 1 bolt to major horn in a schist band.
(note that from the anchors the bolt is not visible, from the anchors follow the left crack up and left around the corner to gain a major ledge, follow the ledge up and left to a schist band and horn below the bolt line for pitch 3)
Pitch 3: 5.11b
From the horn clip the bolt directly above and move out right. Follow the bolt line up and right to the top of the formation. Bring a #1 Camalot for between the 3rd and 4th bolt. Belay in a cove that separates the minor formations.
Pitch 4: 5.9
Traverse out left around the bulge to a vertical crack system, follow this up past a major horn, then follow the crack up and back to the right. Exit and go for the summit.
Location
Approach: park at the Emancipation/Inner Marker Pull-off, follow the trail that divides the two major formations for 250', then trend up right to the base of Truman Tower; (the major formation protruding from Emancipation, looker's left of White House Wall on the northwest side).
The route is on looker's right of Truman Tower
2 Rope Rappel
Summit down to horn at belay station top of pitch 2. Horn to the ground.
The route is on looker's right of Truman Tower
2 Rope Rappel
Summit down to horn at belay station top of pitch 2. Horn to the ground.
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