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The Brotherhood Of the Traveling Stopper...
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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Apr 28, 2013

So does anyone oppose to this guy getting on some of the best granite in CA?


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By rogerbenton
Apr 28, 2013
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.

NorCal- I'm PM'd you...


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By Ryan Kempf
From Boulder, CO
Apr 29, 2013
Ryan on the Sharks Fin wishing he was on Mt. Whiteny.

Roger. you have the stopper?


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Apr 29, 2013

rogerbenton wrote:
NorCal- I'm PM'd you...


I replied on sunday


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By rogerbenton
Apr 29, 2013
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.

The Stopper arrived today. Thanks Cassondra.

Quoth Tony B from the original rule-setting post:

"3) The route must be an obscure or adventure route… No classics, and nothing pedestrian. There has to be a story beyond ‘I climbed Calypso and I placed it.” What kind of fun is that? We are looking for adventure of some sort, not a tick-list."

Obscure or Adventure. Quandry!

I could do obscure within the next two weeks, or I could wait till late july and do adventure.

The obscure thing would be one of the undocumented crags in the gunks that I know nothing about. We'd just go there and scout likely looking lines, no guidebooks, no beta, hope for the best and take some pictures.

The adventure thing, though a longer wait, would be an epic three weeks exploring and climbing clean 1000' granite cliffs rising up from the sea, mostly unclimbed. Like 99.99% unclimbed.

I'd really like to take the TS on the big trip, and I'd love to plug it on a first ascent.

Still, I hate to make the kind, respectful folks of MP wait till I get back in August for a TR.

My proposed solution is thus:


-I can send the stopper to NorCalNomad to use on his yosemite/tahoe trip.

-NorCalNomad can send it back to me after his trip and in time for mine.


I know this is against the original rules:

"4) The stopper will go from climber to climber, not in any preconceived order, but to the person next responding after the previous story has been posted."

However, I think this arrangement will result in two good TR's and that's what this thing is about anyway.

Plus, the TS' summer is nicely laid out, it will get plenty action. Giggidy.

If this isn't cool with the consensus, (tony b gets tiebreaker vote) that's fine, I'll use it next weekend and send it on to whomever.

So ladies and gents, put in your vote.



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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2013
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

I think you use it, send it on, and try to get re-united with it later.
We've had enough 'false starts' around here...


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By Ryan Kempf
From Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2013
Ryan on the Sharks Fin wishing he was on Mt. Whiteny.

I would have to second Tony B. Let's keep the TS moving.

There is and are tons of adventure and FA's for the TS to participate in.


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By rogerbenton
Apr 30, 2013
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.

There we have it. Ill post a heads up about my tr after the 12th.


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By Ryan Kempf
From Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2013
Ryan on the Sharks Fin wishing he was on Mt. Whiteny.

Roger Roger!


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Apr 30, 2013

Well I will tell you guys for sure that you'll have a TR from seeing as my 2 week Sierra trip in May is set in stone.

You'll have to put up with some "classics" in there. But shit at least it's a TR, and I'll try to throw in a twist or two.


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By rogerbenton
May 1, 2013
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.

NorCal- it looks like I'm going to use this thing before passing it on, as opposed to sending it right out and having it sent back.
Where will you be the week after the 12th? If you're on the road I can get it to a PO on your route.


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
May 1, 2013
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

The whole "obscure route" requirement is a red herring. Just do some climbs. That the stopper goes to different places around the country is the cool part.


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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
May 1, 2013
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

Stich wrote:
The whole "obscure route" requirement is a red herring. Just do some climbs. That the stopper goes to different places around the country is the cool part.

BZZZZZT. Wrong!
The one ring can't be tossed into just any old hole in the ground, it goes to Mordor. If Mordor isn't your thing, you don;t ask to carry the ring.


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By The Mother Ship
May 1, 2013


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
May 1, 2013

rogerbenton wrote:
NorCal- it looks like I'm going to use this thing before passing it on, as opposed to sending it right out and having it sent back. Where will you be the week after the 12th? If you're on the road I can get it to a PO on your route.


We are heading out the 21st (if I don't have my dates mixed up). I could toss you a few bucks to send it in a priority envelope if it makes it easier.


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By rogerbenton
May 2, 2013
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.

NorCalNomad wrote:
We are heading out the 21st (if I don't have my dates mixed up). I could toss you a few bucks to send it in a priority envelope if it makes it easier.



No worries, ill get it there.


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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From PG, Utah
May 2, 2013
Our less than official sponsor!

I'm kinda hoping someone takes the sucker, solo, up some extreme aid route on El Cap. One that never gets done. Now there's a good story waiting to happen.


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By rogerbenton
May 15, 2013
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.

Update-

Got rained out last weekend, going back up this Sunday.

TR to follow...


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By rogerbenton
May 23, 2013
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.

Rained out again this past weekend. That's three in a row, lucky me.

Got a plan for this sunday, just keeping the updates going so you all know i'm itching to get out with it...


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
May 23, 2013
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

Tony B wrote:
BZZZZZT. Wrong! The one ring can't be tossed into just any old hole in the ground, it goes to Mordor. If Mordor isn't your thing, you don;t ask to carry the ring.



WUT EV R!!!


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
May 23, 2013
Colonel Mustard

It hasn't exactly been fast and furious in this thread. More like a litany of disappointments.

Fuck! 2011?

The plane has crashed into the mountain.


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By rogerbenton
May 23, 2013
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.

As I watch the weather forecast slowly change from great this weekend to terrible this weekend and dwell on the fact that this will be the FOURTH weekend in a row that the promise of climbing weather has turned to shit, I begin to loose whatever internal misgivings I may at any point have had about ignoring gripes from those in the desert about slow progress on the TR front.

While its raining, run on sentences are the new black- go!


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By rogerbenton
May 27, 2013
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.

The T.S. got out yesterday on some undocumented rock in the gunks. Check the Trip Report forum for details.

Norcal nomad is in the middle of a trip but had wanted it next. if i hear from him by friday it's going to him, if not to whoever is next.

So who's next?


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By rogerbenton
May 28, 2013
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.

Even Better, for the crazy lazy, it's right here:


SO the weather here in New York FINALLY let up. It's been raining every weekend for the past month. It was raining for three days leading up to yesterday and I was still looking at the forecast at 9pm the night before deciding whether or not to go ahead with the trip.

I decided to go for it, and the weather turned out to be great, the rock dry.

The Gunks is my home crag and of the popular cliffs a great deal of beta is available - whether from people, a bunch of guide books, here on MP, etc.

But there are just as many "outlaying" cliffs that are traditionally undocumented, a decision made by locals BITD to preserve a sense of adventure when climbing there. This ethos is held onto today and reinforced at least partially by the Mohonk Preserve itself as these areas are considered to be more environmentally delicate; the lack of guidebooks and written beta keeps the traffic down.

For my turn with the Travelling Stopper it only made sense to embark on an unknown route (so to speak) so my partner Juliana and I set off for a crag neither of us knew a damn thing about: Bonticou. I knew where to park, and had half an idea of how to hike in- and that was it.

The approach was long for gunks standards but a nice hike.



the trail in
the trail in


After a while the trail got steep and we were huffing and puffing a bit but it finally spit us out onto a carriage road and the path leveled out.



Juliana, caffinating
Juliana, caffinating


After a while, the imposing darkness behing the trees on our right started to become more and more evident and as we got closer and the trees thinned out a bit the cliff began to peek through the greenery.



there it is
there it is


We found the footpath off the carriage road leading to the cliff and soon found a path along the base of an enormous talus field. Right away, we spotted a clean white face with a nice triangular roof that we decided would have to be our first stop.

Scrambling over the enormous talus was interesting. There are boulders the size of cars nestled among boulders the size of small houses. I can't imaging what it would be like to see one of these things part ways with the cliff 150' above and come crashing down.

We worked or way to the base of the arete/roof/clean face and began to rack up.



through the monster talus
through the monster talus




definitely do-able
definitely do-able




The arete and roof
The arete and roof


The first line we took was up the aret a bit, onto the right face, and up to the top. A fun warmup lead. Second to last piece placed was the subject of our cause, the traveling stopper itself.





sinker T.S.
sinker T.S.


The view from the top is worth the effort to get there.


catskills
catskills





Juliana on the way up, T.S. second piece from top. (I know the draw on the yellow cam looks like it's facing the wrong way- I came up on the other side of it).
Juliana on the way up, T.S. second piece from top. (I know the draw on the yellow cam looks like it's facing the wrong way- I came up on the other side of it).


Later in the day we came back to this spot and my friend Ian decided to go up the dihedral to the left then under the roof to the headwall on the right. This was an easy line made exciting by all the giant loose blocks that were wobbly enough to be "off".



carefully up the loose dihedral
carefully up the loose dihedral




around the point
around the point


On the way down we spied another good looking line that wound up looking super thin on gear for the first 20' or so so we set up a quick toprope and took turns lapping that.

Then we came across a shorter (50-60'?) line that starts with a big step across with hands in a flared crack. Spicy for the first piece or two, then it mellowed out to the top.

On the opposite side of the cliff we saw what turned out to be my favorite line of the day.
Best I could do was the pic below. If you locate the pine tree bottom left, you'll see the top of the tree points directly to a crack. We went up that crack to the white rock under the first roof on the left, exit roof right, up to the little triangular roof, exit right, up to the big triangular roof (top right), exit left and to the top. This was ~130' of fun climbing with good gear. Unfortunately I didn't find a place for the T.S. on this one.

from the crack near the top of the pine tree, up to the small triangular roof, left to the top.
from the crack near the top of the pine tree, up to the small triangular roof, left to the top.


After a bit more poking around we decided to head over to another crag, Lost City. Lots of hiking and scrambling got us through more extraordinary talus field and to the cliff. Gorgeous pink and orange rock with an uncharacteristically high volume of vertical cracks for the gunks.

With daylight waning we finally settled on a line that looked doable for us. Hand crack up about 15', to a flared offwidth about another 15-20' to a stance, finger crack for 10-12' then some easy jugs to stout tree for belay/rap.

No pics of the route, sorry for that. However, while betting directions to this crag while packing the car back at Bont, I managed to throw my harness in the back seat instead of my pack. Figured that out after getting to the route. So with only one harness, Juliana brilliantly belayed my lead off a tree.



tree belay. it was bomber.
tree belay. it was bomber.


The flared OW scraped me up and almost spit me out and the finger crack threatened to do the same. With a .75 C4 in at my knees and another 12' of jamming to go and a pump starting to set in and a complete lack of crack technique or confidence (we don't have many vertical cracks out here) I decided to just go for it. There was a sort of mini-jug at the top of the crack and I just made it. Would have been an ugly whip but I'm glad I went for it.


We got back to the car just as it was getting dark, very pleased with the day.

The T.S. only got placed once, but it was the first pitch of the day, it was a crucial piece on that route and it was totally bomber.




So, first to ask for this thing gets in line behind NorcalNomad, who is in the middle of a trip now. If I can contact him and get an address it's going that way.

If I can't get hold of him by the end of this week I'll send it to whoever queues up next.


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By Ryan Kempf
From Boulder, CO
May 29, 2013
Ryan on the Sharks Fin wishing he was on Mt. Whiteny.

Offical request for the TS to come out to basce camp in Boulder for adventure planning.


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