|Mary's Bust - main buttress
The Broadmoor is a fun route that climbs the buttress above Dynamite. Its first four pitches are all similarly graded; the 2nd pitch will put a smile on your face (superb climbing along a wide dike of perfect rock).
P1. Do the first pitch of Dynamite (5.10b). Or, do the first pitch of Maternal Damnation (5.10b), moving left past an additional bolt to the anchors on Dynamite (semi-hanging belay). 8-10 bolts, depending on which pitch you choose.
P2. Stem up into a steep pod, and pull left near its top (committing 5.9+) to gain access to a fine stretch of climbing with excellent stone. A #5 Hex or big wire can be placed 2/3 of the way up the pitch, though it's reasonable without it. The pitch ends at a good stance with chains (8 bolts).
P3. Move left onto a broad rib (5.10a early on), and follow 8 bolts through an easy overhang at the end of the pitch. Belay on a great ledge at chains.
P4. Go straight up a steep headwall (5.10a), weave through an overlap, and continue up to a good stance with chains (I think there are 9 bolts on this pitch). A #0.75 Camalot in a horizontal is a good idea; expect a runout if you don't bring one. EDIT: A #1 Camalot actually fits better; you may be able to cram both of them in there.
This is the end of the route as originally conceived. All pitches are about 85-95 feet. Rappel the route (4 rappels, 60 meter rope). One may also continue onward....
P5. Head straight left from the belay, and then up and left to the bolts at the base of the last pitch on The Brown Palace (also the last pitch of There's Something About Mary), 50 feet. Bring a #2 and #0.75 Camalot on this easy though runout pitch (5.3? R) -- a tipped-out #1 Camalot also works in the #2 slot. At the end of the lead, you can clip the final bolt on pitch 5 of Brown Palace, though it'll cause some rope drag. There's some loose rock up there, though if you climb smart, it is all easily avoided.
P6. Do the last pitch of Brown Palace, 9 bolts, 5.10d.
Those completing the optional finish should rappel Brown Palace (6 raps, 60 m rope), or climb over the top and traverse to the rappels on Devil's Backbone. See The Brown Palace for more descent info.
9-18-10 EDIT: Yet another optional finish (FA: Gillett, with Chris Hill, 2010).
THE STANLEY HOTEL
If after finishing The Broadmoor proper (its first 4 pitches) you want more, continue up and right to The Stanley Hotel finish, which leads to the summit. It's not easy to rappel off of this finish: plan on going to the top.
P5. Traverse right on a ledge from the belay and waltz up a delightful ladder of buckets (3 bolts, 5.3) to a good ledge, clip a directional bolt, and walk right on the ledge for 20 feet. A bolted overhang lies overhead, and you'll find belay bolts (no chains) 10 feet below on the top of a ramp.
P6. Boulder over the lip of the overhang (5.11 for tall people), and continue up a short 5.10 wall to a double bolt belay (no chains) on the right, a great ledge at the base of a water tube (4 bolts). You'll want to pick a spot for the belayer that keeps the rope out of the way of the leader -- I suggest dropping down the ramp about 15 feet from the belay bolts. Short folks may want to bring a long sling or two and be prepared to aid over the roof (5 feet of aid on bolts).
P7. Go straight up the water tube to the top, and belay at a tree (5.6, 80 feet). I used a #1 Camalot, 2 wires (one big and one small), slings around two horns on the right, and two bolts at the top for protection.
Descent for The Stanley Hotel: scramble off the back side of Mary's Bust to the rappels on Devil's Backbone. If you can't surmount the 5.11 overhang, and don't want to aid it, down climb the 5.3 5th pitch and then rappel the original route.
Extra Credit: if you stop after 4 pitches and rappel the route, you'll have a top rope set up on the face between Dynamite and Maternal Damnation. There are a number of ways one could choose to go here: I began about half way between the two, and didn't stray over to Dynamite (which is the more obvious choice about midway up the wall), finding 5.11- face climbing.
The Broadmoor lies above and a little left of the first pitch of Dynamite, which begins about 30 feet left of the mine hole at the base of the wall, left center. One can also start with Maternal Damnation; it begins on a ledge immediately left of the mine hole. See topo.
Bring 14 QDs, a #5 Hex or large wire, and a #0.75 and/or #1 Camalot. #0.75 and #1/#2 Camalots are suggested for the continuation to The Brown Palace. For The Stanley Hotel, you'll want a #1 Camalot, a few wires, and a couple slings. Long slings and extra QDs are useful for pitch linkage. We linked #1 and 2 (beginning with MD) to avoid the hanging belay on Dynamite, and then linked #3 and 4 to move fast (be mindful of rope stretch leading to a potential ledge fall if you do it this way).
|By allen simons|
Apr 27, 2010
Bernard, looking forward to this, Allen.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 9, 2010
I self-belayed this yesterday via P1 of Maternal Damnation. Had a hard time and hung at bolts 5 and 6 of Maternal Damnation, but otherwise it went well and clean. I was pretty beat by the end, and my feet hurt from all the knobs. P2 (P1 of Broadmoor proper) was the most fun with a wild swing left (on a slab!) and the smooth out of character brown rock above. P4 is steep at first and crumbly, but not bad. The missing bolt/0.75 cam placement is a little odd. The cam isn't great, and the moves there are fairly hard at maybe 5.9. Both P3 and P4 have the cruxes right off the belay. It would be wise for the leader of the previous pitch to continue 1 or 2 bolts higher and get lowered back to the belay to avoid factor 2'ing onto the anchor (or ledge fall on P4).
May 17, 2010
Awesome route, thanks for putting in the work to bolt this beauty. I had a blast on the second pitch.
|By Greg Sievers|
From: Estes Park, CO
Jun 2, 2010
This route was a hoot! For us locals, it was darn good fun for an after-work jaunt. Thanks for the effort to build it. It'll get even better after a bit of the grit wears off on P3 & 4.
|By Doug Redosh|
Jun 27, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great route! Very continuous, one of the most continous climbs I have ever done. Every move is 5.8 - 5.9 or harder, except for the top of P3.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 29, 2010
Wow, this is really a terrific route. Thanks, Bernard and Roger.
|By Bernard Gillett|
Sep 19, 2010
A new three-pitch finish was added to this route on 9-18-10 (The Stanley Hotel finish, 5.11), resulting in a 7-pitch route to the summit. See revised description above.
|By Stu Ritchie|
Sep 26, 2010
A very well put together route! Dynamite is the more direct start, although very slightly spicy. I found this route to be significantly more fun than its harder neighbor, the Brown Palace, a fine route in its own right.
|By Jake Carroll|
From: Fort Collins
May 14, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
We found that the #5 hex on P2 was completely unnecessary. The bolts there are normally spaced, and there are great handholds all over the place. However, the #1 Camalot on P4 was definitely needed.
We decided to do the Maternal Damnation start, which was the hardest pitch of the day. All in all, super fun route. Definitely comparable to The Brown Palace in terms of quality, with the exception of the rock on P4.
|By Chad R. Johnson|
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 22, 2012
Great route! P2 is the standout, you won't stop smiling. A #1 was the only gear we used and that was on p4. Well worth getting up there just for p2. I agree with Jake, no hex needed on p2.
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 5, 2012
Great route, did this on our second trip to The Bust. We did the Brown Palace last time, one of my favorite climbs of the summer for sure. Started with Maternal Damnation, and boy was it thin. I thought 5.10b was a little sandbagged, maybe 5.10 b/c. Awesome route, thanks to those who put all this (and the other fun routes) up. I'm glad everyone overlooks this place, what a fun rock!
|By Brody Hatch|
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Did this route Saturday the 1st. It was a beautiful day. We did the traverse fifth pitch and last pitch up the headwall (which is easily my favorite pitch for this route as well as the Brown Palace). On the pitch 5 traverse, about 15 feet left of the belay ledge, there is a block that looks like a great hand hold, though it's pretty loose. It has some chalk on it, so I don't know if it being loose is new or not. It's easily avoided, but if you're not thinking, you might naturally be drawn to it.
|By Ken Duncan|
Jan 18, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Have done this route several times now and think that combining P1 of Maternal Damnation with the first pitch proper of Broadmoor gives one of the best pitches in the area. Have also combined pitches 3, 4, and 5 with a 70m rope (using every foot of rope). Great route!