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The Broach 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Doug Reed - 1985
Page Views: 1,658
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on May 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Let freedom ring

Description 

This is one of the most badass lines in the Boone region, if not the state. An overhanging, angling pumpfest, the line is also surprisingly doable for the grade. Get on it and don't let go! The crux of this amazing line might be locking off to peer into the horizontal for gear.
P1-Start as for Linn Cove Lullaby, but instead of heading left for the underclings and traverses, stay straight on easy terrain, heading for a large right-facing corner. Set the belay with medium stoppers at an absolutely perfect, lay-down ledge. 5.6/7, 80'.
P2-Continue up the broad corner, mantling onto a ledge 10 or 15' above the belay ledge beneath a steep, clean bulge. Carefully stand up and reach blindly over the lip--you'll find what you're looking for! Bust a couple of bouldery moves up over this roof, be careful with the flexing jug, get some pro, and GO! Follow the gorgeous horizontal out right for 30 or so feet to an exciting move pulling around the corner. Relax--you're now on an easy slab. Set a belay near the top of the crag. 5.11+, 60'.
NOTE: Many do this route in one pitch.
No description I write will do this route justice. If you're up to the grade, it's simply a must-do.

Location 

Starts on Linn Cove Lullaby and branches off to the right. Rap from the top of Boardwalk.

Protection 

A good variety of gear. Gear through the crux is blue TCU-sized through .75 camalot, with a flaring #2 camalot if you want it. Keep an eye open for keyholed nut placements. Bring a #3 camalot and maybe save some finger-sized cams for the belay. There is a set of newer, hangerless bolt studs hanging out in the vicinity of the belay.


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By porter jarrard
Jun 21, 2009

FA Doug Reed

Five star route. Just did it on Saturday for the first time in twenty years.
By Dr. Rocktopolus
From: Chattanooga, TN
Jul 11, 2012

This thing is bad ass. Its all there for sure. Step up to the plate on this very doable very classic line. There was a fixed wire half way through the traverse when I did it, seemed bomber.
By chummer
Jun 14, 2014

Certainly one of the funnest (and steepest) climbs around the High Country. As they used to say, "a bargain for the grade." Maybe its all my years climbing at Obed but NC .11d seems very generous. Cornflake Crack seems much harder to me at .11a. The exposure and line might increase your fear but fear not. The biggest holds you could imagine with really straightforward and bomber gear with a clean fall. Pure pleasure.

A 70 meter rope gets you to an insignificant and easy down climb.
By Alexander Blum
From: Charlotte, NC
Jul 15, 2014

There are currently two fixed nuts in the middle of the roof. It seems that there is usually a good fixed piece here, but fear not - if they are gone there is still excellent gear to be had during the traverse.

This rig is pumpy, but the crux for me was seeing all that air continue to appear under my feet as I traversed out. If you are considering trying The Broach, don't hesitate!. If you are breaking into this grade it is a GREAT one to grow on, straightforward gear, clean falls, and huge holds means your typical RRG bolt clipper could walk up it in a pair of roller blades with a watermelon hanging from his harness.

So much fun. Go do it. Now. Go!