|Pocket Change Wall
Start in the middle of Pocket Change Wall between an 11a and the 11c/d "Route of all Evil". Start with a jug for the right hand and make moderate moves to the first bolt. From here make sequency moves on hard-to-find holds to the second bolt. Move left and hit a rail of jugs past the third bolt to the 4th. At the fourth grab a rest at the horn, and make another great move to easier ground. Climb through a small runout on easy ground to the anchors.
Great route, hard to onsight. Onsight grade closer to 12a, but easier once you know the moves and holds.
4 bolts + anchors
|Comments on The Bowels of Hell
Oct 23, 2010
FA: Matt Samet, Johnny Myrick, Dylan Etscorn
"There is also a variation called "Retro Fuck", 12b FA Samet. Same start as for the Bowels of Hell; do crux to the third bolt; hairy traverse to join Pocket Change at the third bolt; finish on Pocket Change. Rating is due to the pump factor."