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Garfield Crag
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Bow, The T 

The Bow 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bradley White, 1987
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 553
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 24, 2009

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Description 

The crux is immediately off the ground traversing 10ft left or west under the ceiling to enter an 80ft finger crack. Crack is sustained (5-8) with a (5-9) mantle finish onto a large platform ledge. There is a second pitch up a inside corner facing left on the right side or east from the platform ledge. 50ft+ finish to summit. A 4ft loose block in the corner prevented me from completing this route to the top.

I was rope soloing. Some hang dogging was done during the lead. Did a follow up ascent without hang dogging it, after the climb was cleaned. It'll pump you up. Namesake represents the bow of a ship.

Location 

It's the only protruding outside cornered box shaped wall with a finger crack up the center of it. Left or west central section of crag.

Protection 

Trad rack with small to medium stoppers and there is at least one fixed piton at the beginning crux ceiling. There was a rappel anchor. I'll speculate it's still there in need of new slings. Now restricted to using non permanent protection and no, fixed anchors.


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