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Elevation: 2,816 ft
GPS: 34.941, -101.6521
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 78,740 total · 445/month
Shared By: Jeremy Bauman on Sep 1, 2009 · Updates
Admins: mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Access Open - Keep a low profile. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is the place to go for a quick bouldering fix in the canyon. Located right off the road most climbs can be accessed with a short 5 minute approach. Even though it is easily accessed, the boulder gardens rarely host more than one group of climbers. The rock quality is generally pretty good especially on the more popular boulders though even on well traveled problems holds will sometimes break.

Getting There Suggest change

When the road splits at the Lighthouse trailhead keep left. Continue past the 4th water crossing. Keep your eyes open for a large pull out on the right across from three prominent boulders just off the road. Park here. 

These are the boulders on the official Rock Garden Trail on the official state park map.  Park at the trailhead.

71 Total Climbs

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Location: The Boulder Gardens Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Boulder Gardens

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 15
Short Stuff
Boulder
V1 5
 8
Oreo Warmup
Boulder
V1 5
 7
Barefoot
Boulder
V1-2 5
 12
Unnamed 2
Boulder
V2 5+
 10
Bloody Shnidbit
Boulder
V2 5+
 8
The Johnny Boulder
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 11
Unnamed 1
Boulder
V3 6A PG13
 4
C.F.B.
Boulder
CFB
V4 6B
 8
Unnamed 1
Boulder
V4 6B
 5
Bloody Shnidbit Sit
Boulder
V4 6B
 4
Champiñón
Boulder
V5 6C
 5
My Heroes Are Cowboys
Boulder
V5 6C
 4
Transitional Matrix
Boulder
V5+ 6C+
 11
High on Fungi
Boulder
V8+ 7B+
 4
All Star Chuck Taylors
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Short Stuff Short Stuff Boulder
 15
V1 5 Boulder
Oreo Warmup Oreo Boulder
 8
V1 5 Boulder
Barefoot Barefoot Boulder
 7
V1 5 Boulder
Unnamed 2 Oreo Boulder
 12
V1-2 5 Boulder
Bloody Shnidbit Mushroom Boulder
 10
V2 5+ Boulder
The Johnny Boulder Johnny Boulder
 8
V2 5+ Boulder
Unnamed 1 Yogi Boulder
 11
V2-3 5+ Boulder
C.F.B. CFB
 4
V3 6A PG13 Boulder
Unnamed 1 Oreo Boulder
 8
V4 6B Boulder
Bloody Shnidbit Sit Mushroom Boulder
 5
V4 6B Boulder
Champiñón Mushroom Boulder
 4
V4 6B Boulder
My Heroes Are Cowboys Dungeon
 5
V5 6C Boulder
Transitional Matrix Mini Blue
 4
V5 6C Boulder
High on Fungi Mushroom Boulder
 11
V5+ 6C+ Boulder
All Star Chuck Taylors Honeycomb Boulder
 4
V8+ 7B+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in The Boulder Gardens »

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