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The Boulder Gardens
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The Boulder Gardens 


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Administrators: Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jeremy Bauman on Sep 1, 2009

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Climbing Access Open - Keep a low profile. MORE INFO >>>


BETA PHOTO: Topo of Boulder Gardens

Description 

This is the place to go for a quick bouldering fix in the canyon. Located right off the road most climbs can be accessed with a short 5 minute approach. Even though it is easily accessed, the boulder gardens rarely host more than one group of climbers. The rock quality is generally pretty good especially on the more popular boulders though even on well traveled problems holds will sometimes break.


Getting There 

When the road splits at the Lighthouse trailhead keep left. Continue past the 4th water crossing. Keep your eyes open for a large pull out on the right across from three prominent boulders just off the road. Park here.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Boulder Gardens:
Oreo Warmup   V0     Boulder, 14 feet   Oreo Boulder
The Creep   V1     Boulder, 14 feet   Poison Ivy Boulder
Unnamed 2   V1     Boulder   Oreo Boulder
Short Stuff   V1     Boulder, 1 pitch, 10 feet   Short Stuff Boulder
Takin Flake   V1+     Boulder, 15 feet   Arrowhead Boulder
The Johnny Boulder   V2     Boulder, 15 feet   The Johnny Boulder
Unnamed 1   V2     Boulder   Yogi Boulder
Bloody Shnidbit   V2     Boulder, 15 feet   Mushroom Boulder
Get Lost   V2-3     Boulder, 15 feet   Lost Boulder
Dos Equis   V2-3     Boulder, 1 pitch, 12 feet   Dos Mas
C.F.B.   V3 PG13     Boulder, 10 feet   CFB
Unnamed 1   V4     Boulder   Oreo Boulder
The Night the Earth Cried   V4-5     Boulder, 19 feet   Poison Ivy Boulder
Bad Grammar   V5     Boulder, 1 pitch, 15 feet   The Dungeon
My Heroes Are Cowboys   V5     Boulder, 15 feet   The Dungeon
Transitional Matrix   V5     Boulder, 12 feet   Mini Blue
High on Fungi   V5+     Boulder, 12 feet   Mushroom Boulder
Pistol Grit   V5-6     Boulder, 8 feet   The Grit Block
The Neo Project   V7-8     Boulder, 13 feet   Mini Blue
All Star Chuck Taylors   V8+     Boulder   Honeycomb Boulder
Browse More Classics in The Boulder Gardens

Featured Route For The Boulder Gardens
Me on Jonny

The Johnny Boulder V2  TX : Palo Duro Canyon State Park : ... : The Johnny Boulder
This is probably the most popular boulder in the canyon. It is a good warm up spot because it is on the way to most of the other boulders in the canyon. Though this problem has been said to be hard for the grade it is simply the slopers that make things dicey. Bring plenty of contact strength....[more]   Browse More Classics in TX