The Boulder Gardens Climbing
Areas in The Boulder Gardens
Arrowhead Boulder
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Barefoot Boulder
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CFB
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Dermis
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Dos Mas
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Dugout Boulder
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Dungeon, The
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Easy Traverse Boulder
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Goodnight Boulder
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Gravel Boulder
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Grit Block, The
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Half Cocked Boulder
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Hammer Head Boulder
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Honeycomb Boulder
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Johnny Boulder, The
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Lost Boulder
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Mack Dick Boulder
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Mice and Men
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Mini Blue
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Mushroom Boulder
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Ocean Boulder
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Oreo Boulder
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Poison Ivy Boulder
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Short Stuff Boulder
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Simulator Slab
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Two Pin Boulder
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Vortex Boulder
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Wheel Shaped Boulder
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Yogi Boulder
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: | 2,816 ft |
GPS: |
34.941, -101.6521 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 78,740 total · 445/month |
Shared By: | Jeremy Bauman on Sep 1, 2009 · Updates |
Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell |
Access Issue: Climbing Access Open - Keep a low profile.
Details
Climbing in the canyon is legal, but please maintain a low profile. Please leave no trace to minimize the chances of the park closing to climbers.
Description
This is the place to go for a quick bouldering fix in the canyon. Located right off the road most climbs can be accessed with a short 5 minute approach. Even though it is easily accessed, the boulder gardens rarely host more than one group of climbers. The rock quality is generally pretty good especially on the more popular boulders though even on well traveled problems holds will sometimes break.
Getting There
When the road splits at the Lighthouse trailhead keep left. Continue past the 4th water crossing. Keep your eyes open for a large pull out on the right across from three prominent boulders just off the road. Park here.
These are the boulders on the official Rock Garden Trail on the official state park map. Park at the trailhead.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Boulder Gardens
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
● Short Stuff | Short Stuff Boulder |
|
V1 5 Boulder | |
● Oreo Warmup | Oreo Boulder |
|
V1 5 Boulder | |
● Barefoot | Barefoot Boulder |
|
V1 5 Boulder | |
● Unnamed 2 | Oreo Boulder |
|
V1-2 5 Boulder | |
● Bloody Shnidbit | Mushroom Boulder |
|
V2 5+ Boulder | |
● The Johnny Boulder | Johnny Boulder |
|
V2 5+ Boulder | |
● Unnamed 1 | Yogi Boulder |
|
V2-3 5+ Boulder | |
● C.F.B. | CFB |
|
V3 6A PG13 Boulder | |
● Unnamed 1 | Oreo Boulder |
|
V4 6B Boulder | |
● Bloody Shnidbit Sit | Mushroom Boulder |
|
V4 6B Boulder | |
● Champiñón | Mushroom Boulder |
|
V4 6B Boulder | |
● My Heroes Are Cowboys | Dungeon |
|
V5 6C Boulder | |
● Transitional Matrix | Mini Blue |
|
V5 6C Boulder | |
● High on Fungi | Mushroom Boulder |
|
V5+ 6C+ Boulder | |
● All Star Chuck Taylors | Honeycomb Boulder |
|
V8+ 7B+ Boulder |
Weather Averages
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Days w Precip
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Prime Climbing Season
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J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
Photos
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