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The Boulder Gardens

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Short Stuff Boulder 
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Yogi Boulder 

The Boulder Gardens Rock Climbing 

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Location: 34.941, -101.6521 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 27,439
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeremy Bauman on Sep 1, 2009
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of Boulder Gardens

Climbing Access Open - Keep a low profile. MORE INFO >>>


This is the place to go for a quick bouldering fix in the canyon. Located right off the road most climbs can be accessed with a short 5 minute approach. Even though it is easily accessed, the boulder gardens rarely host more than one group of climbers. The rock quality is generally pretty good especially on the more popular boulders though even on well traveled problems holds will sometimes break.

Getting There 

When the road splits at the Lighthouse trailhead keep left. Continue past the 4th water crossing. Keep your eyes open for a large pull out on the right across from three prominent boulders just off the road. Park here.

Climbing Season

Weather station 15.2 miles from here

57 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',25],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Boulder Gardens

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Boulder Gardens:
Oreo Warmup   V0 4     Boulder, 14'   Oreo Boulder
Short Stuff   V1 5     Boulder, 1 pitch, 10'   Short Stuff Boulder
Unnamed 2   V1 5     Boulder   Oreo Boulder
Unnamed 1   V2 5+     Boulder   Yogi Boulder
Dungeon Line   V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   The Dungeon
Bloody Shnidbit   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   Mushroom Boulder
The Johnny Boulder   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   The Johnny Boulder
Get Lost   V2-3 5+     Boulder, 15'   Lost Boulder
C.F.B.   V3 6A PG13     Boulder, 10'   CFB
Unnamed 1   V4 6B     Boulder   Oreo Boulder
Sweet Shitake   V4 6B     Boulder, 10'   Mushroom Boulder
Transitional Matrix   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   Mini Blue
My Heroes Are Cowboys   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   The Dungeon
High on Fungi   V5+ 6C+     Boulder, 12'   Mushroom Boulder
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Boulder Gardens

Featured Route For The Boulder Gardens
Rock Climbing Photo: Casey gettin high on mushroom

High on Fungi V5+ 6C+  TX : Palo Duro Canyon State Park : ... : Mushroom Boulder
This is arguably the best problem in the canyon. Sit/campus start on the right side on two good pockets. After a campus move or two, move out left to the two good jugs, from there throw up to a sloper rail on the face. Traverse left then either dyno or reach high for an obvious pocket (crux) then climb straight up and top out. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

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