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DescriptionThis is the place to go for a quick bouldering fix in the canyon. Located right off the road most climbs can be accessed with a short 5 minute approach. Even though it is easily accessed, the boulder gardens rarely host more than one group of climbers. The rock quality is generally pretty good especially on the more popular boulders though even on well traveled problems holds will sometimes break. Getting ThereWhen the road splits at the Lighthouse trailhead keep left. Continue past the 4th water crossing. Keep your eyes open for a large pull out on the right across from three prominent boulders just off the road. Park here. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Boulder Gardens:
Oreo Warmup V0 Boulder, 14 feet Oreo Boulder
The Creep V1 Boulder, 14 feet Poison Ivy Boulder
Unnamed 2 V1 Boulder Oreo Boulder
Short Stuff V1 Boulder, 1 pitch, 10 feet Short Stuff Boulder
Takin Flake V1+ Boulder, 15 feet Arrowhead Boulder
The Johnny Boulder V2 Boulder, 15 feet The Johnny Boulder
Unnamed 1 V2 Boulder Yogi Boulder
Bloody Shnidbit V2 Boulder, 15 feet Mushroom Boulder
Get Lost V2-3 Boulder, 15 feet Lost Boulder
Unnamed 1 V4 Boulder Oreo Boulder
The Night the Earth Cried V4-5 Boulder, 19 feet Poison Ivy Boulder
Bad Grammar V5 Boulder, 1 pitch, 15 feet The Dungeon
My Heroes Are Cowboys V5 Boulder, 15 feet The Dungeon
Transitional Matrix V5 Boulder, 12 feet Mini Blue
High on Fungi V5+ Boulder, 12 feet Mushroom Boulder
Pistol Grit V5-6 Boulder, 8 feet The Grit Block
The Neo Project V7-8 Boulder, 13 feet Mini Blue
All Star Chuck Taylors V8+ Boulder Honeycomb Boulder
Featured Route For The Boulder Gardens
The Johnny Boulder V2 TX : Palo Duro Canyon State Park : ... : The Johnny Boulder
This is probably the most popular boulder in the canyon. It is a good warm up spot because it is on the way to most of the other boulders in the canyon. Though this problem has been said to be hard for the grade it is simply the slopers that make things dicey. Bring plenty of contact strength....[more] Browse More Classics in TX |