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The Boulder Gardens

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The Boulder Gardens 


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Location: 34.941, -101.6521 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 22,722
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jeremy Bauman on Sep 1, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of Boulder Gardens
Climbing Access Open - Keep a low profile. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the place to go for a quick bouldering fix in the canyon. Located right off the road most climbs can be accessed with a short 5 minute approach. Even though it is easily accessed, the boulder gardens rarely host more than one group of climbers. The rock quality is generally pretty good especially on the more popular boulders though even on well traveled problems holds will sometimes break.


Getting There 

When the road splits at the Lighthouse trailhead keep left. Continue past the 4th water crossing. Keep your eyes open for a large pull out on the right across from three prominent boulders just off the road. Park here.


Climbing Season


57 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',27],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',3],['V2-3',33],['V4-5',15],['V6-7',4],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Boulder Gardens:
Oreo Warmup   V0 4     Boulder, 14'   Oreo Boulder
Unnamed 2   V1 5     Boulder   Oreo Boulder
Short Stuff   V1 5     Boulder, 1 pitch, 10'   Short Stuff Boulder
Dungeon Line   V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   The Dungeon
Bloody Shnidbit   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   Mushroom Boulder
Unnamed 1   V2 5+     Boulder   Yogi Boulder
The Johnny Boulder   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   The Johnny Boulder
Get Lost   V2-3 5+     Boulder, 15'   Lost Boulder
C.F.B.   V3 6A PG13     Boulder, 10'   CFB
Unnamed 1   V4 6B     Boulder   Oreo Boulder
Sweet Shitake   V4 6B     Boulder, 10'   Mushroom Boulder
Transitional Matrix   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   Mini Blue
My Heroes Are Cowboys   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   The Dungeon
High on Fungi   V5+ 6C+     Boulder, 12'   Mushroom Boulder
Browse More Classics in The Boulder Gardens

Featured Route For The Boulder Gardens
Old beta for TM.

Transitional Matrix V5 6C  TX : Palo Duro Canyon State Park : ... : Mini Blue
This route climbs the steep overhang on the back of the boulder. It has had a hold break off in the past making is harder by about a grade.Start from a sit down on the bottom left of the roof, fallow the crimps to a big move over the lip to top out....[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

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