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DescriptionActually a subsidiary cliff to the Book, the Bookmark has some fantastic routes and is always less crowded, despite a shorter approach. Romulan Territory is a quintessential Lumpy 5.10 corner climb, and both Melvin's Wheel and Backflip climb beautiful 5.8 cracks and corners. Fantasy Ridge (5.9) is a unique must-do climb. Descent: very confusing. Downclimb or a do a short rappel (if summiting). Get established in either of the recesses (east or west) flanking the rock. Both will necessitate funky down-climbing and/or annoying rappel(s). Many routes end in the recess east of the summit; locate [a 2 bolt anchor with chains through a slot & stance facing the gully. Also, the fin where Fantasy Ridge and Joy and Tribulation top out has a bolted anchor. It is on the corner of the fin between the fin and the summit block, once again pretty obvious chains. From this anchor, a 100 foot rappel down into the gully (towards the Left Book) will deposit you at a hidden sling anchor under a chockstone (not visible from above.) A 50M rope will put you within an easy scramble of this anchor. Then, it's one more short rap and a scramble to the base of the Left Book. This descent is now pretty casual. There is talk of replacing the chain anchors with something less visually offensive.] Getting ThereFrom the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Then, head west from the old Twin Owls parking lot, turn off right for the Book, and then turn off left for the Bookmark (follow signs). ~40-45 minutes to approach. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Bookmark:
Original Fantasy Ridge 5.6 Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel 5.8 Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Backflip 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
East Side 5.8+ Trad, 2 pitches
Bookmark OW 5.9- Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Penis Chimney 5.9 Trad, Grade II
Joy and Tribulation 5.9 R Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Inside Straight 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet
Fantasy Ridge 5.9 R Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Romulan Territory 5.10a Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Star Trek 5.10a X Trad, 3 pitches, 450 feet
Klingon (with direct start) 5.10a Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
The Goose 5.10b/c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Bellyflop 5.10c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Between The Sheets 5.11b Trad, 2 pitches
Coleman's Complex 5.11d Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet
Wigglin' Fingies 5.12a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Screamin' Eagles 5.12a/b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Rhythm Method 5.12b R Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet
Seams Like A Dream 5.12b Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Featured Route For The Bookmark
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel 5.8 CO : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark
This is a great route at an even grade. Hike around to the west side of the large (100 feet) flatiron that leans up against the rock. The route begins where the flatiron ends.P1 - Climb a left-facing corner with two small trees (or perhaps one?-bad memory), continue up cracks and turn the right side of a roof, and traverse right to a good ledge (5.8, 150 feet). The cracks just to the right, behind the flatiron, are bushy and not nearly as fun.P2 - Climb the beautiful hand crack in a blank slab ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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