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Actually a subsidiary cliff to the Book, the Bookmark has some fantastic routes and is always less crowded, despite a shorter approach. Romulan Territory is a quintessential Lumpy 5.10 corner climb, and both Melvin's Wheel and Backflip climb beautiful 5.8 cracks and corners. Fantasy Ridge (5.9) is a unique must-do climb. Descent: very confusing. Downclimb or a do a short rappel (if summiting). Get established in either of the recesses (east or west) flanking the rock. Both will necessitate funky down-climbing and/or annoying rappel(s). Many routes end in the recess east of the summit; locate [a 2 bolt anchor with chains through a slot & stance facing the gully. Also, the fin where Fantasy Ridge and Joy and Tribulation top out has a bolted anchor. It is on the corner of the fin between the fin and the summit block, once again pretty obvious chains. From this anchor, a 100 foot rappel down into the gully (towards the Left Book) will deposit you at a hidden sling anchor under a chockstone (not visible from above.) A 50M rope will put you within an easy scramble of this anchor. Then, it's one more short rap and a scramble to the base of the Left Book. This descent is now pretty casual. There is talk of replacing the chain anchors with something less visually offensive.]
From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Then, head west from the old Twin Owls parking lot, turn off right for the Book, and then turn off left for the Bookmark (follow signs). ~40-45 minutes to approach.
32 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Bookmark:
Original Fantasy Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches
Backflip 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 4 pitches
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 3 pitches
East Side 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches
Inside Straight 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Fantasy Ridge 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, 4 pitches
Penis Chimney 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Grade II
Joy and Tribulation 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, 3 pitches
Star Trek 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X Trad, 3 pitches, 450'
Romulan Territory 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches
Klingon (with direct start) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches
The Goose 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Bellyflop 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Between The Sheets 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches
Wigglin' Fingies 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For The Bookmark
Klingon (with direct start) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a CO : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark
The direct start begins just left of Backflip's initial, right-facing dihedral, called Bellyflop, 5.10c, in a dead end crack. Step left and faceclimb past 5 new 3/8" bolts (5.10c and a bit spicy above 3rd bolt) to a belay ledge with bolted anchors. Run the pitch out to Library Ledge and belay below Romulan Territority.P2 - Up that route for 50' then right along a horizontal flake. Directly up a crack marked by a small pine tree then a thin but well protect...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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