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 ADVANCED
7. The Slabs
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Wedge 

The Booklet 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 1981: Alain Comeau and Janot Mendler Comeau
Page Views: 456
Submitted By: bryan barnett on Nov 10, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

A nice variation of Wedge. Climb the first two pitches of Wedge. After the crux slab on the third pitch, move up into the open book dihedral past a bolt to a stance with a piton. Move over a bulge onto the upper slabs, then up past more bolts and an overlap. Belay on large tree ledge.


Protection 

Standard Whitehorse slab rack.



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By Gabe13
Jun 21, 2009

Awesome pitch, file under "hidden in plain sight." Wish it was longer.

This might be PG, especially if you don't spot the "turnkey" nut pocket (to the right of the manky flake and below the mantle out of the corner). There is no pin anymore.

Most people will prefer to rap from the two-bolt station below the overlap.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 23, 2009

I made a little mistake by only looking quickly at my guide book before heading up this climb... I figured id follow what i thought was the most logical line and look for bolts cause i knew there were a few after the corner...

anyway after the corner you are supposed to go right over to a small ledge, I kept going straight up to a bolt above me getting in to a very 5.9R-ish situation... i pulled it off in good style and there was a good anchor to rap from so no big deal but the whole time i was thinking damn, that didn't get an R rating WTF... then i got to the car and looked in the book and saw that i didn't head far enough to the right... just a warning to anyone who isnt superduper solid at 5.9 don't go straight up... i cant wait to the real route next time :)

sorry for the long story...

By Gabe13
Jun 9, 2010

Lee, I think you were on route. At the top of the corner there's a good nut in a pocket (to the right of the totally suspect flake), then the slabby mantle above your gear before you clip the 2nd bolt. Then committing slab moves out left and a balance traverse up and right before you get any more gear.
I would agree with at least a PG if not R. Red tricam is critical to protect the last moves to the anchor.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 9, 2010

interesting... ill have to take another look :)