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The Bookend, about 400 feet high, is the last cliff of the Book group, lying just to the west of the Book and the Bookmark (as seen from the Black Canyon trail). It has quite a variety of climbing, including the unique Orange Julius (5.10a); perhaps Lumpy's best slab route in Climb of Ancient Mariner (5.10a); and several long chimney routes on its south face.
From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Then, hike west from the old Twin Owls parking lot for about a mile, turn right for the Book, and then left after a little ways for the Bookmark. An unmarked spur trail leads west shortly before the Bookmark, ending at the SE prow of the Bookend. Orange Julius and the Great Dihedral should be visible above and right. Some tricky scrambling is necessary to reach routes from Orange Julius rightwards--see the individual route descriptions. ~40-45 minutes to approach.
27 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Bookend
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Bookend:
The Great Dihedral 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 480'
Sorcerer 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Corinthian Column 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 5 pitches, 550'
Hot Licks 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Handbook 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 480'
Knight's Gambit 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 5 pitches, 550'
Climb of the Ancient Mariner 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, Sport, 3 pitches
Orange Julius 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R Trad, 6 pitches, 450'
Strawberry Short Cake 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Pineapple Juice 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Sun King 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, 2 pitches
Featured Route For The Bookend
Blood Feud 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b CO : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend
This is a free variation of the route described in the [Gillett] Guide as Wide Gauge (5.7 A3) which starts on the route No Bozos (10c sandbag) and after 40 feet forks left into the Blood Feud. No Bozos is the "price of admission" into this stellar pitch with three distinct cruxes and an enduro rating. Redpointed with a couple of nuts in place (lodged after some hard falls), this is perhaps one of the best 5.12 cracks at Lumpy. This pitch takes solid gear the whole way....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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