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The Bookend, about 400 feet high, is the last cliff of the Book group, lying just to the west of the Book and the Bookmark (as seen from the Black Canyon trail). It has quite a variety of climbing, including the unique Orange Julius (5.10a); perhaps Lumpy's best slab route in Climb of Ancient Mariner (5.10a); and several long chimney routes on its south face.
From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Then, hike west from the old Twin Owls parking lot for about a mile, turn right for the Book, and then left after a little ways for the Bookmark. An unmarked spur trail leads west shortly before the Bookmark, ending at the SE prow of the Bookend. Orange Julius and the Great Dihedral should be visible above and right. Some tricky scrambling is necessary to reach routes from Orange Julius rightwards--see the individual route descriptions. ~40-45 minutes to approach.
27 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Bookend:
The Great Dihedral 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 480'
Sorcerer 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Corinthian Column 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 5 pitches, 550'
Hot Licks 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Handbook 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 480'
Knight's Gambit 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 5 pitches, 550'
Climb of the Ancient Mariner 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport, 3 pitches
Orange Julius 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, 6 pitches, 450'
Strawberry Short Cake 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Pineapple Juice 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Sun King 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, 2 pitches
Featured Route For The Bookend
Hot Licks 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CO : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend
This was my brother's and my first introduction to offwidth climbing. The first pitch begins right of Orange Julius with a 5.8 hand and fist crack in a dihedral in a chimney. Bring several #3 and #2 Camalots for this section and the crux. Belay 50 feet up when the 5.8 section ends.The second pitch climbs a wide flared 5.7 crack that peters out on 5.9 terrain into a face. Reach a good hold on the face, and traverse right on slightly runout 5.8 face climbing. The 5.8 trave...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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