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The Bookend

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood Feud 
Bombay Chimney 
Climb of the Ancient Mariner 
Corinthian Column 
Great Dihedral, The 
Grovelly Chimney 
Handbook 
Hot Licks 
Knight's Gambit 
Knight's Gambit Variation 
Labor of Lust 
Orange Julius 
Pineapple Juice 
Sicilian Defense 
Sorcerer 
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse 
Sorcerer's Apprentice 
Southern Cross 
Strawberry Short Cake 
Summer Festival 
Sun King 
Tarantula 
Treebeard 
Truth 
Unknown Chasm 
Wide Gauge 
Winds of Fortune 
Unsorted Routes:

The Bookend 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001
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Description 

The Bookend, about 400 feet high, is the last cliff of the Book group, lying just to the west of the Book and the Bookmark (as seen from the Black Canyon trail). It has quite a variety of climbing, including the unique Orange Julius (5.10a); perhaps Lumpy's best slab route in Climb of Ancient Mariner (5.10a); and several long chimney routes on its south face.

The cliff is divided by a chimney known as the great dihedral; this lies on its eastern aspect, just right of the prow dividing the S and E faces. The chimney is very narrow at the bottom, and then opens up, reavealing a smooth wall inside with an obvious wide crack (Hot Licks). To the right is the long narrow slab of Ancient Mariner; to the left lies Orange Julius, which weaves a devious line up the aforementioned SE prow and is further identified by a large triangular roof near its bottom. The South face has three or four long chimney lines while the west face is fairly uninteresting and has one or two routes. The odd new-age bolted face route and 5.12ish crack test-piece can be found here and there throughout the cliff. The Bookend has some definite 3-star routes, though not nearly as many as the Book, and it is always less crowded.

Descent: quite uncomplicated for Lumpy Ridge: head NE from the summit, go down a short, easy gully/chimney, and then walk/bushwhack around down to the base of the cliff.


Getting There 

From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Then, hike west from the old Twin Owls parking lot for about a mile, turn right for the Book, and then left after a little ways for the Bookmark. An unmarked spur trail leads west shortly before the Bookmark, ending at the SE prow of the Bookend. Orange Julius and the Great Dihedral should be visible above and right. Some tricky scrambling is necessary to reach routes from Orange Julius rightwards--see the individual route descriptions. ~40-45 minutes to approach.


27 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',2],['5.9',7],['5.10',6],['5.11',6],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Bookend:
The Great Dihedral   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 480'   
Sorcerer   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Corinthian Column   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 550'   
Hot Licks   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
Handbook   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 480'   
Knight's Gambit   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 550'   
Climb of the Ancient Mariner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches   
Orange Julius   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R     Trad, 6 pitches, 450'   
Strawberry Short Cake   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Pineapple Juice   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Sun King   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in The Bookend

Featured Route For The Bookend
Thad on P3 OW.

Hot Licks 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  CO : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend
This was my brother's and my first introduction to offwidth climbing. The first pitch begins right of Orange Julius with a 5.8 hand and fist crack in a dihedral in a chimney. Bring several #3 and #2 Camalots for this section and the crux. Belay 50 feet up when the 5.8 section ends.The second pitch climbs a wide flared 5.7 crack that peters out on 5.9 terrain into a face. Reach a good hold on the face, and traverse right on slightly runout 5.8 face climbing. The 5.8 trave...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Bookend Slideshow Add Photo
The Bookend
The Bookend
Bookend from Bookmark.  Climbers are visible on P5 Orange Julius and an alternate finish to P3 Sorcerer.
Bookend from Bookmark. Climbers are visible on P5...
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Topo for some of the classic moderates.
Topo for some of the classic moderates.
Bookend, Bookmark, The Book.
Bookend, Bookmark, The Book.
Comments on The Bookend Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Carnes
Oct 17, 2005

I'm by no means anything better than a 5.10 climber these days, but I can talk shit at a 5.12 level, and when I do I don't need to reiterate everything said previously. So to Bob D., just let that shit fly, we're all up to speed on the previous remarks, you don't have repeat them. It's much more entertaining that way. For arguments sake, that slab would have been better at a place like Penitente rather than Lumpy, where almost everything's a bolted boulder problem.

By Nate A
From: Estes Park, CO
Oct 18, 2005

I guess I'm out of the loop, but where is this slab that Spanky bolted? I hope it's not just L. or R. of the Winds of Fortune 1st pitch. I toproped the L. hand line last spring, noting the holds probably wouldn't last more than a few ascents, [definitely] not worth adding bolts. The rock quality on the R. hand line didn't appear much better.