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 ADVANCED
Fruita Canyon
Select Route:
Balanced Rock T 
Ballerina (right of Taper) T 
Book of Pleasure, The T 
Harvest Moon T 
Left of Special Verdict T 
Oliver Perry Smith Buttress T 
Otto's Ladder T 
Ribbed Buttress T 
Special Verdict T 
Squeeze Box T 
Taper (unknown) T 
Z-Row Gravity T 

The Book of Pleasure 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1+ [details]
FA: Mike Baker, Lesli Henderson, March 1994 - 5.9 C1+
Season: Spring through fall
Page Views: 987
Submitted By: Airbiscuit on Jan 6, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: The Book of Pleasure 5.10 C1+ Or Free!

Description 

P1: solo up the short perfict hand crack to the alcove that marks the start of the of the Ribbed Buttress.

P2 or P2/3: start the ribbed buttress climbing a short, semi-rotten chimney to the second rib and a newish 3/8" bolt. Belay here to minimize rope drag or climb on if you have managed things properly. From here, traverse right for 8 feet or so on sketchy, broken 5.8. Aiding a few last pieces to get around the corner. From here, follow the line of fixed pieces for fifty feet or so expecting a few exciting moves till entering the Book. Climb up twenty feet in the book to a hidden belay at a decent stance.

P3 or 4: you are now at the base of some sweet climbing fire up the "Book of Pleasure" at 5.9 hands for 100'+/- to a bolt and pin belay. 20' or so below the intimading roof.

P4 or 5: thrutch up the munge at 5.10 or C1 awkward and out the roof on solid cams. Turn the roof and climb to the rim. Rope drag is a bitch on this pitch.

Location 

It is in the same location as Ribbed Buttress.

Protection 

Single Friends from a #0.25 to a #6 and a single set of Camalots from #1 to a #5, a few small nuts, lots of longs runners, hammer and a few select arrows and blades in case the fixed ones blow.


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By Airbiscuit
Jul 10, 2009

The pitch 2 aid section was freed today on TR w/ one hang and the roof P4 was sent on lead @ 5.Hard! There is also an extreme choss factor on these two pitches. All the important bolts have been replaced with 3/8" & 1/2" at the belays. Much thanks to whoever did this.
By Airbiscuit
Apr 7, 2012

Bomber, if I remember right, all but one have been updated. The initial moves right across the rib definitely have some true Monument spice though. Once you get around the corner, things mellow out.
By Teddy Sadler
From: Grand Junction, CO
Oct 1, 2012

How is the traverse?? It spooked me and my partner, and we bailed. The feet look absolutely terrible, and it's more like 12 feet to the piton/bolt/whatever it is. Neither of us wanted to take that whip, especially on that sketchy anchor built on crumbly rock. But we wanted to get to the book sooo badly!!
By TylerVaughan
From: Glenwood Springs, Colorado
Jan 17, 2015

Climbed to the top of the chimney on pitch one. It was the funk, clipped the first bolt and looked at what should be the R rated traverse. R rated because the rock is shit and the foot holds crumble, and you would definitely break your legs if you blew it. The first bolt on the traverse is 20ft out and directly right. We said f that and finished up the 1st pitch of the Ribbed Buttress at 10d safe crack climbing, then bailed on a three pin anchor.

It would be wise to climb to here and lower down, swing over to the bolt ladder, and start climbing. I mean when you already have aided it, doesn't really matter how ay you are, right?
By Mickey Guziak
From: Grand Junction
Jan 18, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1+

Tyler, we did the traverse today, mainly by putting in pieces under the junk rock and putting minimum weight on them to access that bolt ladder. The feet were pretty good.

The bolt ladder is pretty bad after that, a mixture of spinners, ancient Star drives, and a few pitons about ready to blow. I did pop out a piton on pitch 5 today, makes it a bit harder now. Probably today was the last time this thing can be done safely, without replacing hardware. Unless you are a crazy ass mofo.
By Ryan King
From: Casper, WY
Jan 24, 2015

I strongly recommend doing almost ANY route in The Monument instead of the Book of Pleasure. Maybe I have just gotten spoiled climbing awesome routes like Medicine Man and the Kissing Couple, but I thought this route was a big bummer.... If you do decide to go for it still, bring a few small pieces down to a BD #0.3 and some stoppers. High consequence, minimal reward, but that's just one person's opinion.
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