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 ADVANCED
Fruita Canyon
Select Route:
Balanced Rock T 
Ballerina (right of Taper) T 
Book of Pleasure, The T 
Harvest Moon T 
Left of Special Verdict T 
Oliver Perry Smith Buttress T 
Otto's Ladder T 
Ribbed Buttress T 
Special Verdict T 
Squeeze Box T 
Taper (unknown) T 
Z-Row Gravity T 

The Book of Pleasure 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1+ [details]
FA: Mike Baker, Lesli Henderson, March 1994 - 5.9 C1+
Season: Spring through fall
Page Views: 870
Submitted By: Airbiscuit on Jan 6, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: The Book of Pleasure 5.10 C1+ Or Free!

Description 

P1: solo up the short perfict hand crack to the alcove that marks the start of the of the Ribbed Buttress.

P2 or P2/3: start the ribbed buttress climbing a short, semi-rotten chimney to the second rib and a newish 3/8" bolt. Belay here to minimize rope drag or climb on if you have managed things properly. From here, traverse right for 8 feet or so on sketchy, broken 5.8. Aiding a few last pieces to get around the corner. From here, follow the line of fixed pieces for fifty feet or so expecting a few exciting moves till entering the Book. Climb up twenty feet in the book to a hidden belay at a decent stance.

P3 or 4: you are now at the base of some sweet climbing fire up the "Book of Pleasure" at 5.9 hands for 100'+/- to a bolt and pin belay. 20' or so below the intimading roof.

P4 or 5: thrutch up the munge at 5.10 or C1 awkward and out the roof on solid cams. Turn the roof and climb to the rim. Rope drag is a bitch on this pitch.

Location 

It is in the same location as Ribbed Buttress.

Protection 

Single Friends from a #0.25 to a #6 and a single set of Camalots from #1 to a #5, a few small nuts, lots of longs runners, hammer and a few select arrows and blades in case the fixed ones blow.


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By Airbiscuit
Jul 10, 2009

The pitch 2 aid section was freed today on TR w/ one hang and the roof P4 was sent on lead @ 5.Hard! There is also an extreme choss factor on these two pitches. All the important bolts have been replaced with 3/8" & 1/2" at the belays. Much thanks to whoever did this.
By 007
From: cold as it gets, CO
Apr 5, 2012

Hey Airbiscuit, do you have anymore beta on the initial traverse to access "the book". What's the fixed pro like?
By Airbiscuit
Apr 7, 2012

Bomber, if I remember right, all but one have been updated. The initial moves right across the rib definitely have some true Monument spice though. Once you get around the corner, things mellow out.
By Teddy Sadler
From: Grand Junction, CO
Oct 1, 2012

How is the traverse?? It spooked me and my partner, and we bailed. The feet look absolutely terrible, and it's more like 12 feet to the piton/bolt/whatever it is. Neither of us wanted to take that whip, especially on that sketchy anchor built on crumbly rock. But we wanted to get to the book sooo badly!!