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The Boneyard

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abby Gabby Goo S 
Armed Insurrection S 
Bangers and Mash S 
Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship S 
Cindarella S 
First Fast Draw, The T,S 
Flying Serpents S 
Glide S 
Gym Jones Approved S 
Haggis, Neeps and Taties S 
Hijacked Project S 
Hoosierheights.com S 
Last Slow Draw, The S 
Lucy Goosey S 
Lula Mae T 
Oink! Oink! T 
One-Armed Bandit S 
Renegade T 
Son of a Wanted Man T 
Stealing Melinda S 
Surfing the Whale's Back S 
Sweet Tater S 
Tanduay Time S 
Tao Bato S 
Winona T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Boneyard 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 4,046
Administrators: saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 16, 2009
Forecast:
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The Boneyard, with Janelle climbing "Cinderella", ...

Description 

The Boneyard hosts a nice collection of moderate sport climbs on the South side of Muir Valley. Its North-facing aSpect makes this a good crag for warmer weather. Due to its proximity to the popular hard-man venue of "Midnight Surf", The Boneyard has become a popular option for warming up. Most of the routes here on the slabby side of vertical, and these lines generally involve a cruxy start followed by easier pocket pulling above. There are a handful of fully overhaning lines as well, but nothing harder than 5.11. The rock is gray and very grippy, almost sharp. Some of the routes can be sandy, but these are worthwhile routes.

There are a number of projects here, some open, some closed, and potential for many more.


Getting There 

Hike down into Muir Valley. Turn left at the bottom of the valley, and follow the road west, eventually crossing the creek. Turn left at a large grassy meadow on the left, and follow signage to "The Boneyard". A good trail climbs up the hillside through the trees. Turn right at the first intersection, go around the buttress, and follow the cliff-base trail for ~ 100yds to the main cirque.


Climbing Season


25 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',5],['5.11',10],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Boneyard:
Oink! Oink!   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
One-Armed Bandit   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 80'   
Armed Insurrection   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 80'   
Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Gym Jones Approved   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 72'   
Bangers and Mash   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Glide   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Browse More Classics in The Boneyard

Featured Route For The Boneyard
Me on lead nearing the top.  My arms were so gone at this point!

Bangers and Mash 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  KY : Red River Gorge : ... : The Boneyard
Climb up to the ledge and traverse right to clip the first bolt. Find a hidden hold to get past the first bolt and then bust out a move to get past the third and onto a ledge. Rest up and contemplate the rest of the route. Climb some slopey moves to reach jugs just left of a vertical rib. The last couple bolt lengths often get people....[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

Photos of The Boneyard Slideshow Add Photo
The left end of The Boneyard.
The left end of The Boneyard.
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