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DescriptionThe Boneyard hosts a nice collection of moderate sport climbs on the South side of Muir Valley. Its North-facing aSpect makes this a good crag for warmer weather. Due to its proximity to the popular hard-man venue of "Midnight Surf", The Boneyard has become a popular option for warming up. Most of the routes here on the slabby side of vertical, and these lines generally involve a cruxy start followed by easier pocket pulling above. There are a handful of fully overhaning lines as well, but nothing harder than 5.11. The rock is gray and very grippy, almost sharp. Some of the routes can be sandy, but these are worthwhile routes. Getting ThereHike down into Muir Valley. Turn left at the bottom of the valley, and follow the road west, eventually crossing the creek. Turn left at a large grassy meadow on the left, and follow signage to "The Boneyard". A good trail climbs up the hillside through the trees. Turn right at the first intersection, go around the buttress, and follow the cliff-base trail for ~ 100yds to the main cirque. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Boneyard:
Oink! Oink! 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet
One-Armed Bandit 5.9 Sport, 80 feet
Hijacked Project 5.9 Sport, 47 feet
Son of a Wanted Man 5.10a Trad, 73 feet
Lucy Goosey 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Armed Insurrection 5.10d Sport, 80 feet
Tanduay Time 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Tao Bato 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Gym Jones Approved 5.11b Sport, 72 feet
Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Haggis, Neeps and Taties 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet
The First Fast Draw 5.11c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Hoosierheights.com 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Bangers and Mash 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
The Last Slow Draw 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Sweet Tater 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Flying Serpents 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Glide 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet
Featured Route For The Boneyard
Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship 5.11b KY : Red River Gorge : ... : The Boneyard
One of the best lines at The Boneyard, Capt Blonde climbs a nice line of overhanging jugs & pockets. This route makes for a good warmup, but its harder than it looks, with big pumpy moves. One of the steeper 5.11s around, this route will keep you on your toes.Begin with easy moves up the left side of the arete. Around the 3rd bolt, veer left towards the steep wave (the 5.9 breaks right here). Pumpy moves between rounded ledges lead up & up. Head right, around the subtle arete, when the angl...[more] Browse More Classics in KY
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