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Routes in Newcastle Crag
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Boila, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Broon, The TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Brown Ale S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Deaf Elevated TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Full Sail S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Guinness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mission Accomplished TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One the Only, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pale Ale S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Warrantless Wiretap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Jake Burkey, Mark Limage. 1999 |
| Page Views: | 2,275 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Owen Carver on Nov 20, 2009 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Technical smears and under-clings pull up to a slight over hanging layer of rock, pass the featured flakes to a horizontal crack and pull the last few holds to the anchor.
Rated the same as 'The Broon' in the black book, however, when these pics were taken, all 6 people in my group finished 'The Broon', but only two of us were able to complete this climb.
Rated the same as 'The Broon' in the black book, however, when these pics were taken, all 6 people in my group finished 'The Broon', but only two of us were able to complete this climb.
Location
Anchor is accessible by scrambling up the east side of the formation. The anchor rests 1.5' over the edge 10' east of the anchor for 'The Broon'. Have someone belay you to the anchor. (Or take much more time and use a .5 cam and small nut to create a safety anchor for yourself while you set up the top rope. See included images to see where I placed my protection.) Too dangerous to set the TR without a backup, unless you like hanging unprotected over cliff edges.
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