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Technical smears and under-clings pull up to a slight over hanging layer of rock, pass the featured flakes to a horizontal crack and pull the last few holds to the anchor.
Rated the same as 'The Broon' in the black book, however, when these pics were taken, all 6 people in my group finished 'The Broon', but only two of us were able to complete this climb.
Anchor is accessible by scrambling up the east side of the formation. The anchor rests 1.5' over the edge 10' east of the anchor for 'The Broon'. Have someone belay you to the anchor. (Or take much more time and use a .5 cam and small nut to create a safety anchor for yourself while you set up the top rope. See included images to see where I placed my protection.) Too dangerous to set the TR without a backup, unless you like hanging unprotected over cliff edges.
Two bolts at top [w/ recently added bolt for safe anchor setup]. TR only.
Setting up TR on 'The Boila'.
Optional protection placement for use when lowerin...
Working 'The Boila' at New Castle Crag.
Final crux move on Boila
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 14, 2010
There is now a good pro bolt (1/2") on top to anchor to when setting up this TR- look for it in a recess about 4' above the anchor.