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The Boardwalk Chimney
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3 from 5
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Routes in Lower Tokopah Dome
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1000 Piece Meal Deal T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Beauty and the Beast T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c A0 |
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Boardwalk Chimney, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mango Lassi Lulz Machine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Tokopah Adventure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 R |
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Tokopah Reality T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Welcome to Wallmart T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Daniel Jeffcoach, Vitaliy Musiyenko (January 2014) |
| Page Views: | 3,703 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | SirTobyThe3rd M on Jun 3, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures
Details
The SeKi Rock Climbing website nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/… has current closures as well as other climbing information for visitors.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Description
A really fun route that follows a major chimney system on the SW face of Lower Tokopah Dome. It will not prepare you for the Steck Salathe, but is a worthy climb anyway. Once you are past the first pitch, the amount of chimneying depends on how much do you prefer this style of climbing vs friction and knob pulling. This route could have potentially been done by other climbers but research with locals have not brought out any claims for any routes that went up to the top of Lower Tokopah Dome. There were no bolts or other signs of passage noted on this route at the time of the ascent.
Pitch 1. 5.8 55 meters. Start from the left, up a short layback and get in the chimney proper. #6 camalot protects the squeeze crux of the pitch. Pull the second roof by climbing on face holds on the right side or by going straight in, which did not look as fun. Continue stemming, chimneying and face climbing on awesome knobs for almost the whole rope length. For anchor tie off giant chicken heads to climber's left of the chimney and some cams (BD #1) could be placed in a hidden crack. Fun and sustained pitch.
Pitch 2. 5.7 55 meters. Climb up the deep groove/chimney in the end of which you will have to do a full on 5.7 OW crux that involves heel-toe and chimney technique to get past. When you are past the hard part and in a fairly good stance, traverse a few moves left on a horizontal dike and make a gear anchor. You can place a BD 0.75 (green) camalot and protect the traverse. Anchor takes a variety of cams from #0.4 to 3 camalot.
Pitch 3. 5.7 PG 13, 60 meters. Climb up the chimney and after about 30 feet traverse right to cool knobs on the right. Get past the bulge, sling knobs and continue up taking the path that is more protected and seems reasonable. The mental crux is about 15 ft of 5.6ish friction above a few tied off chicken heads. Continue straight up and use the cool orange dike for some variety. Make a belay station at a nice stance with a solid crack for a gear anchor. Scramble to the summit and enjoy the views!
Pitch 1. 5.8 55 meters. Start from the left, up a short layback and get in the chimney proper. #6 camalot protects the squeeze crux of the pitch. Pull the second roof by climbing on face holds on the right side or by going straight in, which did not look as fun. Continue stemming, chimneying and face climbing on awesome knobs for almost the whole rope length. For anchor tie off giant chicken heads to climber's left of the chimney and some cams (BD #1) could be placed in a hidden crack. Fun and sustained pitch.
Pitch 2. 5.7 55 meters. Climb up the deep groove/chimney in the end of which you will have to do a full on 5.7 OW crux that involves heel-toe and chimney technique to get past. When you are past the hard part and in a fairly good stance, traverse a few moves left on a horizontal dike and make a gear anchor. You can place a BD 0.75 (green) camalot and protect the traverse. Anchor takes a variety of cams from #0.4 to 3 camalot.
Pitch 3. 5.7 PG 13, 60 meters. Climb up the chimney and after about 30 feet traverse right to cool knobs on the right. Get past the bulge, sling knobs and continue up taking the path that is more protected and seems reasonable. The mental crux is about 15 ft of 5.6ish friction above a few tied off chicken heads. Continue straight up and use the cool orange dike for some variety. Make a belay station at a nice stance with a solid crack for a gear anchor. Scramble to the summit and enjoy the views!
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