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Shepherds Crag
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The Bludgeon, E1 5b 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Peter Lockey, April 1957
Page Views: 632
Submitted By: USBRIT on Dec 16, 2009
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James McHaffie on the final pitch. Photo Dave Will...

Description 

A spectacular and strenuous last pitch, one of the best in the valley. Starts just left of Little Chamonix.

On the first ascent of this route, before nuts and cams were introduced, only one piece of protection was used on the top pitch, a piton in the groove to the right and below the pinnacle. The pinnacle itself was considered unsafe to place a sling runner.

P1) Climb the blunt arete and finish left of the spike on LC.Scramble to belay at a oak tree on the right side of the terrace. 5.8, 100'

P2) Move left and climb the rib on its left side. Step right around the rib and up a short groove to its top below and right of the large overhanging pinnacle. Climb the crack on the right and get onto the top. Finish up the steep wall by a crack or small holds on the right. 5.9+, 80'


Location 

Shepherds Crag, see topo of crag.


Protection 

Normal rack



Photos of The Bludgeon, E1 5b Slideshow Add Photo
Andy Ross, 1st Oct 2013. Long way from Salt Lake City. Just before the crux!
Andy Ross, 1st Oct 2013. Long way from Salt Lake C...
The Crag. Drawing by the late Len Roop
The Crag. Drawing by the late Len Roop
When a second falls from Bludgon
When a second falls from Bludgon
Chris Bonington.1989.photo Paul Ross
Chris Bonington.1989.photo Paul Ross
Simon Nadin .. 1989  photo Paul Ross
Simon Nadin .. 1989 photo Paul Ross
Gene Vallee (Utah) found the crux
Gene Vallee (Utah) found the crux
Andy Ross on the crux
Andy Ross on the crux
What Now?
What Now?
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