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 ADVANCED
Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anarchist , The S 
Blinded By The Puss T,S 
Bloody Beetroots, The S 
Captain Moonlite T,S 
Clark Bar Crack T 
Cold Vein , The S 
Dyno Problem TR 
Exposed TR 
Fear The Wolf T 
Food Pyramid T,TR 
Forearm Frenzy T 
Half crack TR 
Hollow Arete, The TR 
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct T,S 
Its Own Spirit T,S 
Jungle Face T,TR 
Kilometer Variation 
Kyles Corner T,TR 
Magic Central S 
Marmalade T,TR 
Modern Collective T,S 
Mudskipper, The T,TR 
Noriega - AKA - Bolt or Jolt TR 
P&H T 
Pisces T,TR 
Psycho Jap S 
Shape Shifter S 
Silver Wings S 
Sirius T,TR 
Spider T,TR 
Summer 
Super Slab T,TR 
Super Vivid 
TRad Crack T,TR 
Wallow In The Hollow  T 
We Don't Toprope T 
Zeitgeist T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Bloody Beetroots 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Shylo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,734
Submitted By: Echoinfi on Oct 9, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Bloody Beet Roots

Description 

Right most arete on the Psycho Jap wall. A steep bouldery, core intensive, start leads to jugs and largest hold on the cliff (the Root) that you can sit on, knee bar, leg jam.. Continue up the arete on large holds to a tricky reach and mantle to an anchor with hidden pockets near it. A good and probably easier variation is to cut left at the 4th bolt and finish up on the last bolt of "Cold Vein" immediately to the left. This is the "Death Crew 77" variation that has a really neat pocket hold and nice holds to clip the anchor.

youtu.be/vNO8ItNQBFQ


Location 

center of the cliff on the "Psycho Jap" wall.


Protection 

Glue-ins.

Stick clip the first bolt.



Photos of The Bloody Beetroots Slideshow Add Photo
Arete
BETA PHOTO: Arete
The Bloody Beetroots follows the right most arete.... utilizing the mega feature
BETA PHOTO: The Bloody Beetroots follows the right most arete....
Bloody Beet Roots
Bloody Beet Roots
Crawling my way up...
Crawling my way up...
Comments on The Bloody Beetroots Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 9, 2014
By guy bon
Oct 11, 2011
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

Fun, pumpy climbing. Another unique climb at Chatfield.

By John Biehn
From: Madison, CT
Oct 28, 2011

Most unique feature at Chatfield-- great addition and is super fun!

By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Dec 10, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

In the video linked above all of the draws are facing the wrong way. "Spine towards the line" is basic sport climbing knowledge. The climber is to the right of the draws the whole way up and the gates are facing him. I don't mean to embarrass anyone but this should be pointed out so new climbers don't replicate it.

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Dec 10, 2013
rating: 5.15c/d 9c 38 XII+ 39 E11 8b

And ur downgrading it too, to 10b? good catch though on the draws...

By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Dec 11, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Morgan, I think it is height dependent to reach the jug above the heel hook. For me, 5'11" it felt no harder and very similar to Dat Mantel (5.10b) at the Gunks. Maybe I was just having a low-gravity day.

By guy bon
Dec 11, 2013
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

Brian, you have offended me. it hurts knowing you think i'm endangering myself and setting a dangerous example for future CT climbers. However, i've hung up some draws on my home wall so I can practice clipping correctly. Maybe I'll make a video for everyone.

In any case, it's a good thing I didn't fall out of the knee bar, or off the 1 foot ledge I was standing on, or off the hero jugs at the end, or onto the correctly placed last draw, you know, the only one that matters on this route....

By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Dec 11, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Nate,

I'm sorry if I offended you but no matter if you can walk up 5.13s or not they were still incorrectly placed draws and potentially dangerous. You don't have to make a video, proper biner gate orientation is mentioned in every sport climbing 101 book and video already.

Brian

By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Dec 11, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This is funny for two reasons.

- ratings at the Gunks maybe be on the YDS but I would never compare the ratings there to any other crag I've ever been to. I'd go as far to say that the ratings there are almost a number grade off most places. I do agree the B.Beetroots would be a 10b at the Gunks though. Guy Bon wouldnt know this since he has never done a route there! Hell, most of the 5.10 cracks I've done in Yosemite would get downrated to 5.9 at the gunks.

-the spline on the line thing... not once in 20 years of craggin have I ever heard of a draw coming unclipped besides a backclip. If you spend any time at new areas you dont know which way the line goes until your feet are already above the draw. I guess I need to brush up on some sport climbing 101 books myself, you can add me to the unsafe crowd too since I have never downclimbed to change the draw around. Its a good thing Guy has given up roped climbing for pebble wrestling huh?

By Leif
Dec 11, 2013

Just want to point out another thing about these photos. The "Leader" is SHIRTLESS and belayer, god have mercy on his soul, is WEARING A TANKTOP! I though Mountain Project was one of the last corners of the internet where I wouldnt get bombarded with shirtless men and their tanktop toting "partners". To hell with the direction of the draws put some clothes on before you take a slab whipper and tear the shit out of you bear chests!

-Leif "this was a fine distraction from studying" Anderdorf

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Dec 12, 2013
rating: 5.15c/d 9c 38 XII+ 39 E11 8b

Leif... I think u meant "bare" not "bear" seeing as shylo shaves his chest...

By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Dec 12, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

>>"-the spline on the line thing... not once in 20 years of craggin have I ever heard of a draw coming unclipped besides a backclip."

Mike, You got to admit that your weekend cragging for 20 years is hardly a statistically significant sample. The next time I see you I'll demonstrate how it can come unclipped. Rare...sure...but why not avoid the possibility by simply orienting your biners? I can send you a bunch of links from reputable sources that all say not to orient the gate toward the line. All wrong or too cautious?

As far as Gunks grades, that is a whole different thread. IMHO, the old Gunks/Tahquitz/Yosemite ratings are spot-on and the newer areas (especially sport) have softened everything else.

By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Dec 12, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Actually for the first 15 or so years I only cragged on weekdays(maple and american fork get too crowded on weekends), it wasnt until I moved east where everyone is a slave to the man that it became weekends. Honestly though, I've been known to belay with a grigri with no hand on the brake side while not wearing a helmet on top of clipping in the wrong direction. I guess I like the thrill of it all.

By ckersch
Jun 9, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

There's a no-hands rest after almost every move, but 11a felt about right for the starting and finishing boulder problems, at least the way I did them. Finish felt like the crux, but I don't mantle very often.