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West Face - Left Side
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The Blank 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Royal Robbins and Jerry Gallwas, May 1954, FFA: Tom Frost and Bob Kamps, 1960
Page Views: 1,745
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: The start (I think).

Description 

This four pitch route is quite sustained, with the pitches rated 5.9, 5.10A, 5.10A, and 5.9. It starts 20 feet left of Angelís Fright. Climb the short left-facing dihedral (not the more difficult thin crack just to its right) via finger jamming, and belay on a large ledge. Pitch 2 goes up over the right side of an overhang (fun), and up to a hidden belay ledge above. Pitch 3 is a clean, wide, right-facing corner with liebacks, hand and fist jams, and a few offwidth moves. On pitch 4, climb up to a bolt, and then traverse left to easy ground. From here, you can move left to Pine Tree ledge, or right to Lunch Ledge.

Protection 

Bring two or three pieces in the 3.5 to 4 inch range for pitch 3.


Photos of The Blank Slideshow Add Photo
top of p3
top of p3
The Business
The Business

Comments on The Blank Add Comment
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By Brandon R.
Aug 1, 2006

Does anyone know what the tips crack in the center of the roof on the second pitch goes at?

Also, the guide book says to go up the left side of the roof, but I think the better path follows the description above.
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 24, 2009

Did the first two pitches of this route last weekend. looking at the topo, it looks like it should go up the finger crack splitting the large portion of the roof on p.2 - I am now pretty sure this is not the "standard" route - we eventually made it up that way after maybe 8 falls, but it is undoubtably harder than 10a - I'd give it more like firm 10c or so. I'm not sure, but it was pretty hard. shaken, we bailed off onto the final pitches of angel's fright.

it looks like you could go up the offwidth/lieback crack on the left of the roof, or maybe around to the right of the big portion of the roof. anybody know a) what the center finger crack is? and b) the "official" route?
By Murf
Aug 24, 2009

Left side is standard for The Blank, center is Jonah.
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 13, 2010

Hey Murf, thanks - that makes alot more sense now.

BTW- are your murf as in tom murphy? you remember that kid that tom mcnatt taught to climb back in the day? well I'm still at it :)
By benjamin brownell
From: Ashland, OR
May 18, 2010

Nice route, not really 'sustained' but consistently fun. Skipped last pitches to finish on Jonah, which was a great link. First few moves off the ground are tricky thin fingers, but plenty pro. Carry on past belay ledge at 50' if you want. It's still unclear to me which is the standard way through the overlap on P2, went left around roof and stepped back right into crack at 8/9. Could lieback the wider (4"+) direct route, or try something else further right, all probably 10ish. P3 is a fun corner/overhang lieback, not too strenuous. p4 was not obvious off the belay, but you can easily move right into Jonah, with or without the .10R traverse...and leave it again on Lunch Ledge if the .10 finale doesn't go.
By Mark K
Jul 2, 2012

This can easily be done in two pitches, linking 1&2 and 3&4, with a 70 (I'm pretty sure a 60 would be fine as well). Very fun route.
By Tradoholic
Oct 22, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Done in two pitches, very awkward in the dihedral, I was under-cling fist-jamming, whatever that is.