Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Deer Leap
Select Route:
Black Wonton, The T 
Bulge (AKA - The Flying Groundhog), The T,TR 
Celibacy T 
Center Crack T 
Monkey Direct T 
Monkey, The T 
Off Width T 
Pit and the Pendulum T 
Simple and Independent Minds T 
Standard Route T 

The Black Wonton 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Magness, Mike Sturgeon 5/12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 562
Submitted By: chris magness on Jun 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: TBW follows the yellow line, Bag of Tricks follows...

Description 

A wild little roof problem. Short and pumpy. Start left of Bag of Tricks and right of The Easy Way on a moderate slab. Look for a short roof crack 15' off the ground.

Climb the moderate but unprotected slab to the roof crack. Place a somewhat blind cam and make a committing move into the roof. Make a big move to some hidden jugs and a pumpy stance to place gear in a left angling horizontal finger crack (crux). Follow the horizontal left to an unlikely jug. Trend up and left following cracks across easier terrain to a two bolt anchor on top of The Easy Way.

Location 

The Lower Tier, between The Easy Way and Bag of tricks.

Protection 

Cams. .4-2, crux takes .4 and .5. Optional 3.5 in a pod turning the roof.


Photos of The Black Wonton Slideshow Add Photo
Moving up and out the roof crack
Moving up and out the roof crack
into the crux on the FA
into the crux on the FA
TBW follows the yellow line, Bag of Tricks follows...
BETA PHOTO: TBW follows the yellow line, Bag of Tricks follows...

Comments on The Black Wonton Add Comment
Show which comments
By chris magness
Jun 28, 2012

We'll need a consensus grade here. I was pumped and placing the crux gear and getting it right is damn hard. Two pieces help, it's shallow!

Named for Mike's dog, Friday, who has a feature similar to the roof crack.