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This is the formation directly to the east of the Pillar of Hope and stands out from the other formations with its large patches of black patina. There is a smaller rock in front, connected to the Black Tower by means of a natural bridge (see the Umbilical Cord). In addition to the aforementioned climb, the tower is home to several other nice sport routes. Like most of the formations in the Cemetery, there are good edges on the climbs but many of the flakes are hollow. On the south side of this formation there is a lesser block with a couple moderate TR problems.
Approach as for the Cemetery. Head left into the heart of the formations. The Black Tower is at the center of the main area, east of the Pillars of Hope and Despair, and south of the Evil Pillar.
5 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Black Tower
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Black Tower:
Umbilical Cord 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
What’s the Point 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Crown of Thorns 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Exhumed 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Evil Twin 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For The Black Tower
Crown of Thorns 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CA : High Desert : ... : The Black Tower
This interesting moderate lies on the south face of the Black Tower and is easier than it looks. On the left side of the south face you will notice a striking arete, capped with a sizeable roof. From the base of the climb it is apparent how this one got its name. Start on the arete, moving up and slightly to the right until you get to the roof. Move into great exposure, up and left, using the “thorns” through a crux sequence that is a lot of fun and requires some interesting technique. Abov...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Local Information for The Black Tower