the Black Tower
This is the formation directly to the east of the Pillar of Hope and stands out from the other formations with its large patches of black patina. There is a smaller rock in front, connected to the Black Tower by means of a natural bridge (see the Umbilical Cord
). In addition to the aforementioned climb, the tower is home to several other nice sport routes. Like most of the formations in the Cemetery, there are good edges on the climbs but many of the flakes are hollow. On the south side of this formation there is a lesser block with a couple moderate TR problems.
Approach as for the Cemetery. Head left into the heart of the formations. The Black Tower is at the center of the main area, east of the Pillars of Hope and Despair, and south of the Evil Pillar.
Climbing Season Traffic By Month
5 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Black Tower
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Black Tower:
Exhumed 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Evil Twin 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For The Black Tower
Exhumed 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b CA
: High Desert
: ... : The Black Tower
This very interesting route didn't find its way into Mayr's guide but is easy to find. It starts in the shallow, light-colored trough about 12' to the right of Umbilical Cord. And its more like two short and very different climbs stacked atop one another. The lower section features fine balance and smearing on tiny edges. Going straight up along the bolt line gives this one it's grade, but easier versions can be had to the right if on top-rope: although there is a crux move at the first bolt...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Local Information for The Black Tower
BETA PHOTO: location overview