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This is the formation directly to the east of the Pillar of Hope and stands out from the other formations with its large patches of black patina. There is a smaller rock in front, connected to the Black Tower by means of a natural bridge (see the Umbilical Cord). In addition to the aforementioned climb, the tower is home to several other nice sport routes. Like most of the formations in the Cemetery, there are good edges on the climbs but many of the flakes are hollow. On the south side of this formation there is a lesser block with a couple moderate TR problems.
Approach as for the Cemetery. Head left into the heart of the formations. The Black Tower is at the center of the main area, east of the Pillars of Hope and Despair, and south of the Evil Pillar.
5 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Black Tower
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Black Tower:
Umbilical Cord 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
What’s the Point 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Crown of Thorns 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Exhumed 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Evil Twin 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For The Black Tower
Umbilical Cord 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c CA : High Desert : ... : The Black Tower
Start on the west face of the small block directly in front of the Black Tower. There is a nice crack here that will take a small cam at about the height of the first bolt (for the purist in you). After surmounting the block, walk across the bridge and clip the second bolt. The bridge is what distinguishes this climb, especially considering that it looks as if it would collapse the moment you step onto it! Continue up rather steep face climbing through a spicy but well-protected crux. Finis...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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