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 ADVANCED
Wendell Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bag of Tricks aka Flake S 
Beak, The S 
Black Streak, The S 
Bob's Nob S 
Castlewood Capers S 
Cheesedick Soiree S 
Cobble Wobble S 
Horizontal Bop S 
Icerigger S 
Nob Job S 
Noodlers' Nightmare S 
Nose Job S 
Phalloid Void S 
Pit Viper S 
Pocket, The S 
Prarie Dog S 
Ruse, The S 
Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation S 
Sidewinder S 
Slot, The S 
Song of the Wood S 
Sub, The S 
Sun Cave Direct S 
Sun Cave Right S 
Svengali S 
Textured Landscape S 
Triskaidekaphobia S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Black Streak 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: [J. Heiney, 1999, who beat bolters T. Hanson & S. Sills to the redpoint]
Page Views: 3,692
Submitted By: Mark MacClary on Jan 5, 2005

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The start of the crux.

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Description 

In my opinion, this is easily one of the top 3 routes at [Castlewood]. It is between The Sub and Seamless.

A jump start followed by some powerful campus moves gets you to the first bolt. Then some technical crimping on small pebbles and slopey little dishes lead to a toss for the big obvious jug. Get a shake, then crank a couple easier moves until you are at the crux. It's a big toss left to a crappy little rock, get your feet on, and you're home free. The top, after the crux, gets rather chossy from the run off, so tread lightly.

Otherwise this is an amazing route, due to the variety of movement, from power down low, to technical in the middle, and a combo of the two will get you through the crux.

Protection 

A stick clip is very important for this line, as the first bolt is about 15 feet off the ground and the start goes at around V7. The rest is closely bolted and no worries.


Photos of The Black Streak Slideshow Add Photo
The end of the crux.
The end of the crux.
The start of the technical crimping.
The start of the technical crimping.
The opening campus moves.
The opening campus moves.
The crux of the lower face, and a good picture of ...
The crux of the lower face, and a good picture of ...
The middle of the crux.
The middle of the crux.
Sticking the jug.
Sticking the jug.
The black sneaker.
The black sneaker.

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