Black Solitaire
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 4 from 23 votes
Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Joel Unema, JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2015 |
Page Views: | 5,775 total · 52/month |
Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Feb 14, 2015 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
A sweeping, stunning pitch, The Black Solitaire is in many ways thee line on the Main Wall. Quality rock and super fun climbing from the bottom to the top that gets consistently harder until the final redpoint crux moving towards the last bolt. This pitch is the harder twin to Solitaire, which the line also starts on, for a diamond can only be polished by means of other diamonds.
With the addition of the bolted direct start, the Black Solitaire is now technically speaking, a linkup. After the bulge crux of Solitaire at bolt #8, keep moving up and right into a fat, black water streak. A pumpy shake is followed by thin cranking or more dynamic options, then a superb series of technical, crimpy compression moves. It seems no matter what beta you go with, it's pretty brilliant climbing and flawless positioning . Gorgeous jugs await at the top and a standing anchor clip.
A bonus is that it is rather easy to lower from Solitaire's anchor to The Black Solitaire anchor to rig TRs or hang draws, etc.
Protection
13 lead bolts that may be seasonly equipped with ClimbTech perma draws (November-March). If you get up there and are only seeing chain extensions under the roof, just clip the bottom quicklinks on the chain with a draw and your rope should run as designed.
2 bolt, chain anchor with ClimbTech mussy hooks provided by the ASCA.
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