All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Barker Dam Area

The Black Rocks Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Black Rocks

	1B1RP T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Freriks Is A Daddy T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	My President Is Addicted To War T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Opportunist, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Preying Mantles T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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GPS:	34.02731, -116.13062 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	David Evans on Mar 5, 2003 · Updates
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Access Issue: NEW RESTRICTIONS Details

nps.gov/jotr/parknews/dam_v…

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

The Black Rocks have a half dozen routes that would be considered trad climbing. The rock varies from fair to very good as the black and gray rock at Josh is usually XL. The cliff gets afternoon sun and is a good cold day destination. The main black cliff has 3 established routes the best of which is Freriks is a Daddy 5.10 b/c. It climbs a steep thin seam on the buttress to left of center just right of a clean dihedral. It is similar to "Wired", i.e. technical with thin pro. Tie off a rare Josh "thread" in rotten rock and lieback up and away!

Getting There

The Vogel guide states: "These very dark-colored cliffs lie on the west side of a small hillside .5 mile E-SE of the Wonderland Ranch (Uncle Willie's) parking area. They lie to the north of the Bighorn Pass Rd., about .6 miles after you pass the turnoff for the Wonderland Ranch parking area. The 3 separate "black" cliffs are fairly obvious". These directions lead to the section of cliff with "Freriks is a Daddy" 5.10 b/c and "Ranking Carl" 5.8. The cliff with the 4 routes listed in the book is actually about 50 meters to the north and is a smaller gray cliff.