The Black Hole 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Jay Smith, Dougald McDonald, Nick Nordblum 1980 |
| Submitted By: | John Hegyes on Dec 28, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: The Black Hole, pitch 1
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Description The Black Hole shares the first pitch with the Sea of Holes but was climbed first. It is this first pitch that has the large, man-sized hueco from which this route's name is derived.
Pitch 1: Make a few chimney moves to obtain the corner above it and follow this corner system past a thin crack to the two bolt anchor. (5.9, 100 feet)
Pitch 2: Continue straight up through the obvious weakness in the roof. (5.10, 50 feet)
Location This route is located in the second corner to the left of Topless Twins on the left side of Brass Wall.
Protection Gear up to a single #4 Camalot
| Comments on The Black Hole |
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By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 28, 2006
| We climbed the first pitch only, which features some sandy rock but is quite enjoyable. The books say to rap from pitch one with a pair of ropes, but we were able to stretch the rappel with a single 60 meter. |
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 1, 2007
| Contrary to the Brock (big red) guidebook, pitch 1 is about 90'. |
By Tom Fralich
From: Fresno, CA
Feb 8, 2011
| The first pitch is an excellent addition to the popular routes at the Brass Wall. Well worth doing. The second pitch looked pretty spicy. |
By Socka
From: Bloomington, IN
Dec 1, 2011
rating: 5.10c R
| The first pitch is excellent. The second one is scary mainly due tu dirty and fragile rock. Climbing straight through the roof is really spicy, on-sight is demanding. I broke off a hold when pulling over the roof, but the pro was good, not that scatchy as giude-book reads. The grading depends on how much to the right you go in order to pull over the roof. After the rest in the stem there comes one more thin move and some interesting liebacking too. Taken together, I would recommend only the P1 and then continue by Sea of Holes. Cut Away is also very nice route. |
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