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> (c) Earwax Wall
The Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 35 votes
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Eric Hirst, Jon Nelson (5/2014) |
Page Views: | 3,526 total · 29/month |
Shared By: | Jon Nelson on May 2, 2014 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
Continuous thin edging up a slightly less than vertical wall. The most thoughtful part may be between the 2nd and 4th bolt, but the climbing never really eases up. Despite it being relatively short, expect to get pumped near the end. No good rests, but lots of good holds.
Start by gaining the top of the large flake resting against the wall. Take Ben's direct start from the base to get the most fun from the pitch. But an easier way is on the left side if you so desire. From the top of the flake, start on Sideshow, using its first two bolts. After the second bolt, veer left to the base of a groove and crack feature, then go up. Finish about 10' right of where Domestic violence crosses the roof.
You can probably traverse left to the Domestic roof and continue up that route, if the bottom part of Domestic is seeping.
Start by gaining the top of the large flake resting against the wall. Take Ben's direct start from the base to get the most fun from the pitch. But an easier way is on the left side if you so desire. From the top of the flake, start on Sideshow, using its first two bolts. After the second bolt, veer left to the base of a groove and crack feature, then go up. Finish about 10' right of where Domestic violence crosses the roof.
You can probably traverse left to the Domestic roof and continue up that route, if the bottom part of Domestic is seeping.
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