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Routes in Sleeper Area
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Black Dahlia, The V10 7C+ |
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Groundation V9 7C PG13 |
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Obelisk, The V9 7C PG13 |
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| Type: | Boulder, 15 ft (5 m) |
| FA: | Mike Bockino |
| Page Views: | 3,172 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | tcamillieri on Apr 15, 2010 |
| Admins: | Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Don't climb on wet rock!
Details
Attention:
Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-
climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo…
and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.
Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-
climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo…
and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.
Description
The crux is the big move from the jug and it is a doozy. Big moves on mostly good holds this is a thug climber's dream come true. Route begins matched on underclings and climbs through good crimps to a jug and then huck for your life for an ok sloper right foot up and then SLAP! and SLAP! again, move your right foot up to the top of the jug and huck for the lip. Top out is fairly easy. A neo-classic for sure. The jug at head height has broken since the first ascent and is probably V10 itself from this hold, the bottom into the jug is in the V5-6 range. On the same level of awesomeness as Life, Jitterbug Perfume and Trent's Mom, Black Dahlia is for sure one of the best V10's in Joe's.
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