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The Tan Buttresses
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The Black and Tan Towers 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: maybe Seth H. and Taylor B.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 808
Submitted By: Taylor-B. on Jul 8, 2013

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After the storm.

Description 

The Black and Tan Towers are located at the far east end of the Tan Wall. There are two options to reach the towers; descend down the standard Tan Wall 3rd class ramp or for a short easy approach after climbing one of the other Tan Wall routes, continue along the ridge and drop down the 2nd class gulley to the east. There are three towers and they are all easy walk offs from one to the other.

Tower 1: Pitch 1, locate two left facing corners (choose one) on the far east side of the tower and climb up to a thin 5.9 seam that will gain a nice belay terrace on the SE corner, below a white-peg corner.
Pitch 2, climb the corner, traverse left to gain the prominent right facing corner 5.7.

Tower 2: Pitch 1, climb the wide crack system up to a nice belay stance 5.8 100ft.
Pitch 2, climb the hand crack directly above the belay, scoot left to some black rock with a fist crack and continue to the top along the ridge 5.8 200ft.

Tower 3: Pitch 1, climb the striking hand and finger crack up the center of the golden/orange tower 5.8.

Protection 

Single rack of small cams, doubles in hands and fists and one BD#4.


Photos of The Black and Tan Towers Slideshow Add Photo
The descent gully from the base of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: The descent gully from the base of the climb.
First tower.
BETA PHOTO: First tower.
The second tower. The OW is in the center.
BETA PHOTO: The second tower. The OW is in the center.
The 3rd tower.
The 3rd tower.
The Black and Tan Towers.
BETA PHOTO: The Black and Tan Towers.
Approaching the base.
BETA PHOTO: Approaching the base.
Nice ridge climbing on the 2nd tower.
Nice ridge climbing on the 2nd tower.

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