The Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower)
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On the traverse...... climbing with Mr Ace Hardwar...
AKA The Girdle Traverse of Castleton
The climb has some wild situations, and perhaps an unusual experience for localized climbers. .. try it... The climb starts at the Kor- Ingalls. The traverse uses 4 pitches of established climbs and 5 new pitches.Might go in full day.This climb is dedicated to the desert climber and guide book writer Eric Bjornstad.
P1. Pitch 1 Kor route. 5.6 140'
P2. Move belay to right to join P2 Arrowhead Left. Climb this pitch to top of the Arrowhead(junction with Stardust Cowboy). 5.10. 100'
P3. The long Ed Webster bolt ladder of Stardust is followed, then up to the right to belay overlooking North Chimney. 110'
P4. Climb down 20', then over the massive chockstone near the top of P2 on the North Chimney. A traverse right was made across the slab on the right to a bolt at the end of the slab.Lowered down from this , and swing right onto ledges and 3 bolt belay at the top of pitch 2 on the North Face route. 110'
P5. Up ledges to the right, then climb down 12' to a beautifully exposed narrow slab traverse line (some of the bolts used to protect this pitch need hangers, nut and washers in place - bring a half inch wrench, or use wires). Follow the slab crossing the Sun, Moon, and Stars route to an anchor overlooking The West Face route. 110' 5.9+ C1 (With pro now in place it should go all free)
P6. Lower 50' to an anchor on the West Face.
P7. Follow a thin crack up and right to the belay around the corner. C1 5.3
P8. The long superb exposed crack is followed across the West Face to a belay overlooking the Kor route. 80' 5.9 C1
P9. From just up right of the belay, lower down a few feet to a horizontal crack. Follow it and then lower off into the Kor route. C1 170'
Two sets of cams from Metolius 00 to #4 friend, many biners for the Webster bolt ladder. Some stoppers.
Paul Ross on the eight pitch of the First Ascent. ...
The Traverse.. South Face section
The Bjorstad Traverse. West Face section
The Traverse . North Face section
Jeff Pheasant on pitch 8, following the exposed tr...
|Comments on The Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower)
By Little Chamonix
Jun 30, 2006
2015...It is now nearly 14 years after the first traverse/ascent and still no claim of a second ascent.
By Little Chamonix
Dec 19, 2014
Friend, desert pioneer and guide book writer Eric Bjornstad died 17th December 2014.