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 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apprehension T 
Arcane Saw T 
Bitter Route, The T,TR 
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 
Cabana Boy T 
Candy-O T 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 
Captain Crunch S 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 
Day Dream T,TR 
Dispensary, The T,S 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 
Flakey Floont T,TR 
Flower Quarter T,TR 
Greaser, The T 
Hasting's Cutoff T 
Lemon Line T 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 
Loose Lucy T 
Lucid Dream T 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 
Mr. Natural T 
Over 'ed Power Line T 
Phee-nix T 
Pickpocket T,TR 
Quantum Mechanics T 
Real Men Eat Eggs T 
Remention T 
Rosy I T 
Rough Roof T 
Roving for Love T 
Schizophrenia T 
Senora (??) T,TR 
Senorita T,TR 
Shadow T 
Slimy Spoon, The T 
Strangle Hold T,S 
Sub Slab T 
Suparete T,S 
Super Natural T 
Super Slab Direct Start T 
Tiny Line T 
Toys for Tots T,S 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 
Velvet Hammer T 
Vertical Smile T 
Waking Sleep T 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 
Zombies on the Lookout T 

The Bitter Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: M. Brooks, L. Wilson, 1982
Page Views: 303
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 18, 2002

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  • Description 

    The Bitter Route is on the lowest teir of the W/SW face of Redgarden Wall, and thus it gets early morning shade and late morning to late afternoon sun. The route begins from the trail and ends on a ledge near the base of Psychosis.

    Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. The dihedral just above the ladder on the wall, behind the boulder, is Schizophrenia. Just left of and below this dihedral, perhaps just 6 feet is an overhang with a left-facing crack that rises up to form a downward pointing, almost horizontal crack. Climb up the handcrack and to the horizontal. The rock here is somewhat cubic in structure and is solid for holds, but might blow out from a hard fall on a shallow. Place gear in the crack and move upward into it. Reach out left into the thin seams and place a small nut, then move up and left onto the face over the overhang and work your way up perhaps 40 or 50 feet to the ledge above. Belay from the large tree, which presently has one fized purple sling, but no rap rings.

    To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, then down to the boulder and metal ladder again.

    Protection 

    A light rack with a decent assortment of small nuts and cams. The rock int he downward pointing crack just below the crux is somewhat cubic in structure and is solid for holds, but might blow out from a hard fall on a shallow placement. Place gear with that in mind.The route can be TR'd after leading Schizophrenia or after walking to said ledge as for the start of Psychosis.


    Comments on The Bitter Route Add Comment
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    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Apr 3, 2010

    This is a challenging lead at the grade, and worthwhile if you're looking for that kind of challenge. The initial moves required yarding off a suspect flake in the red band. Good gear after that leads to the small ceiling. There's a good cam at the lip, and you can get several marginal pieces in the two thin vertical cracks above that. The crux step up is pretty hard given the suspect gear, but it's over as soon as you stand up. More good gear can convince you to make one more hard move straight up, or you can move left to easier and dirtier ground.