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The Binding 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 313
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Oct 31, 2008

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Description 

The arching arete to the right of the corner. Start the same as the Good Book and pull up into the corner. Once you're standing on the starting handholds, traverse out right to the arete with delicate smears and terrible hands (crux). Using flakes and pinches on the arete, work up and gradually left to where the arete rejoins the crack and the Good Book at the top. Fun, balancy, and just hard enough to make you think. This is a worthwhile climb on its own, but if you already have a toprope set up after doing the Good Book, there is no excuse for not giving this a try.


Location 

Roughly two minutes walk from Boulder Natural. Follow the trail towards Devil's Den, step over a jagged, fallen tree, and turn right at a large tree with a white blaze onto a faint path uphill. There is a tiny cairn just off the trail. When you locate the inside corner of Good Book, look at the arete on the right. This climb shares the start of Good Book. Ascend a gully on the left to set up a toprope.


Protection 

Tree anchors for toproping. There isn't a single gear placement on this climb.



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By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Oct 31, 2008

10/30/08 - Spent about 45 minutes on rappel to scrub this thing enough to make it climbable again. It's still a little scruffy, but fun nonetheless.