The Billboard is one of the most difficult crags in AF, both for the difficulty of the routes and for the heinous approach. While it certainly hosts a lot of hard climbs, there are also climbs for we mortals, although nothing is easier than 5.11. What can be useful here is that many of the routes share anchors, so it is often possible to lead up a moderate line and get the draws on a more difficult one. The limestone is fairly typical of AF overall, and it is easy to get on 5.11/5.12 of comparable quality, without the hike. However, if you are looking for 5.13 and hard 13, then the Hell cave is probably the only rival. Erection or Ejection, Death of a Sailsman, Beeline, Apetizer all tick in close to 11d/12a and are excellent. I'm sure that the hardmen can identify the optimal testpieces, but even for the moderate routes, the hike was worth it for the good stone, scenic view, relative isolation, and the feel of being in a place where some real climbing goes on. This is one of the top crags in AF. A dozen draws and a 50 meter rope will handle nearly everything, although we have had to rap down in two stages on at least one route. This is a South facing crag, and high in the canyon, so bring lots of water.
Who knows how to get here. If you park about .2 miles from the Little Mill campground, then there is a cairned trail on the left that heads up to The Billboard; it's a bit past the parking spot. The trail is lousy, steep, and easily lost. Furthermore, if it is dry outside, then the trail becomes very loose. Poke along, keep your eyes open, carry what you need. The trail will eventually get you to the crag.
Browse More Classics in The Billboard
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Billboard:
Music for Chameleons 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch
Erection or Ejection 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch
Death of a Sailsman 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch
American Flyers 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Beeline 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
To Hell on a Rocket 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
This Must Be The Pickle 5.12d Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Featured Route For The Billboard
Death of a Sailsman 5.12a UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Billboard
Right of the block is a vectorial line that crosses an overlap right off the ground, this is Death of a Sailsman. Continuous, slightly spooky climbing leads to the cruxy roof section just below the anchor. Hard to believe that Ruckman gave it only two stars. Continuous, tricky, vectorial climbing on great stone add up to a classic AF "a"....[more] Browse More Classics in UT