Tyson figuring out the beta after sending atmosphe...
The Billboard is one of the most difficult crags in AF, both for the difficulty of the routes and for the heinous approach. While it certainly hosts a lot of hard climbs, there are also climbs for we mortals, although nothing is easier than 5.11. What can be useful here is that many of the routes share anchors, so it is often possible to lead up a moderate line and get the draws on a more difficult one. The limestone is fairly typical of AF overall, and it is easy to get on 5.11/5.12 of comparable quality, without the hike. However, if you are looking for 5.13 and hard 13, then the Hell cave is probably the only rival. Erection or Ejection, Death of a Sailsman, Beeline, Apetizer all tick in close to 11d/12a and are excellent. I'm sure that the hardmen can identify the optimal testpieces, but even for the moderate routes, the hike was worth it for the good stone, scenic view, relative isolation, and the feel of being in a place where some real climbing goes on. This is one of the top crags in AF. A dozen draws and a 50 meter rope will handle nearly everything, although we have had to rap down in two stages on at least one route. This is a South facing crag, and high in the canyon, so bring lots of water.
Who knows how to get here. If you park about .2 miles from the Little Mill campground, then there is a cairned trail on the left that heads up to The Billboard; it's a bit past the parking spot. The trail is lousy, steep, and easily lost. Furthermore, if it is dry outside, then the trail becomes very loose. Poke along, keep your eyes open, carry what you need. The trail will eventually get you to the crag.
Weather station 0.1 miles from here
19 Total Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Billboard
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Billboard:
The One 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch
Beeline 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Apetizer 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For The Billboard
This Must Be The Pickle 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : The Billboard
This is the first of the true "cave" routes, and is one route to the right of "The Shining" (5.13c). Start up on sharp pockets climbing a tad right of the bolts, then step left and establish yourself under the first big overhang. Here the route starts to get hardish, with a very big reach off a not so good undercling...though there is more than one way to do this sequence. This will get you to a big horizontal break, and ready for even steeper climbing above. Surf up to a good right hand poc...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Latest Regional Forum Messages
From: SL UT
Jun 14, 2009
In reality this is no more than a 20 minute hike- 15 if you're fit. Not a big deal at all.
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 31, 2011
To find the trail, park on the right hand side of the road (heading up canyon) in a small pullout, .2 miles from the Saw Mill Picnic area. This pullout is located about 100 yds down canyon from the first entrance to the Little Mill Campground. The trail is located across the road from the pull out and up canyon about 100 feet (faint). If using the Ruckman guidebook, page 69 is accurate except that the road on the right that says "Little Mill Campground, one way" should say Saw Mill Picnic Area.