The Bilbo Buttresses  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  5,205. Good page?    Administrators:  C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Locker on Dec 4, 2003 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Thu Fri Sat Sun Mon 86° | 59° 88° | 61° 90° | 61° 90° | 63° 91° | 63°

Bilbo Buttress.
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

These are the small walls just east of Billboard Buttress. If facing Billboard Buttress, it is directly to the right. New bolted line El Chivo 5.8, 4 bolts with a 3 bolt anchor. Also White Trash 5.8, Val De Mello 5.10b and Debbie Does Donuts 5.6. A good one right out of the back of your car. Billboard Buttress is often crowded but I have found this set of climbs to be generally empty (Ask permission of course if campgroud is taken). Best climbed on weekdays!

Getting There 

From the Indian Cove entrance, drive into the main campground area (passing the group camping on right) until you see a fork in the road. Take the left, park at Billboard Buttress (by the recycling bins) immmediately on your left (Pixie Rock at the Fork on the right). Walk past Billboard Buttress into the campground right past it and BINGO!!! There ya be! Look left.........

The Classics

Featured Route For The Bilbo Buttresses

Debbie Does Donuts 5.6  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Bilbo Buttresses

This route is not bad, but it's too short to be very good. Maybe it has some merit as a way of getting to the top of the rock to establish a TR on Val De Mello? In any case, out on the far right end of the Bilbo Buttress, there is a notch between the end towers. In that nothch, on the right hand side there is a hand and fist crack, should you scramble up to it (or just scramble up it). One can scramble off or retreat from anchors above Val De Mello. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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The Bilbo Buttresses, Joshua Tree NP

BETA PHOTO: Closer view of the right side of Bilbo Buttresses