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The Bilbo Buttresses Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Bilbo Buttresses

L › R R › L A › Z

	Abandoned project TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Debbie Does Donuts T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Debbie Does Everyone T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Done with Debbie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	El Chapo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	El Chivo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Nitty Gritty T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Sean Penn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Val De Mello S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	White Trash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

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Elevation:	3,185 ft
GPS:	34.09338, -116.15583 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	23,832 total · 96/month
Shared By:	Orphaned User on Dec 4, 2003
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

These are the small walls just east of Billboard Buttress. If facing Billboard Buttress, it is directly to the right. New bolted line El Chivo 5.8, 4 bolts with a 3 bolt anchor. Also White Trash 5.8, Val De Mello 5.10b and Debbie Does Donuts 5.6. A good one right out of the back of your car. Billboard Buttress is often crowded but I have found this set of climbs to be generally empty (Ask permission of course if campgroud is taken). Best climbed on weekdays!

Getting There

From the Indian Cove entrance, drive into the main campground area (passing the group camping on right) until you see a fork in the road. Take the left, park at Billboard Buttress (by the recycling bins) immmediately on your left (Pixie Rock at the Fork on the right). Walk past Billboard Buttress into the campground right past it and BINGO!!! There ya be! Look left.........

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Bilbo Buttresses

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 136 ● El Chivo Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 20 ● Val De Mello Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 23 ● Sean Penn Sport