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These are the small walls just east of Billboard Buttress. If facing Billboard Buttress, it is directly to the right. New bolted line El Chivo 5.8, 4 bolts with a 3 bolt anchor. Also White Trash 5.8, Val De Mello 5.10b and Debbie Does Donuts 5.6. A good one right out of the back of your car. Billboard Buttress is often crowded but I have found this set of climbs to be generally empty (Ask permission of course if campgroud is taken). Best climbed on weekdays!
From the Indian Cove entrance, drive into the main campground area (passing the group camping on right) until you see a fork in the road. Take the left, park at Billboard Buttress (by the recycling bins) immmediately on your left (Pixie Rock at the Fork on the right). Walk past Billboard Buttress into the campground right past it and BINGO!!! There ya be! Look left.........
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Bilbo Buttresses:
El Chivo 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For The Bilbo Buttresses
White Trash 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13 CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Bilbo Buttresses
The moves are better than the rock itself, which tends toward gritty.This is the low-angle crack system prominent on the Bilbo Buttress, leaning left and jumping between the 3 crack systems along its way. Starting from the ground, one can use the various cracks to make a B-line for the anchors on El Chivo, and bring up your second.Not a bad line, but no distination, for sure....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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