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The Big Pucker 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b R

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tom Davis, David Rubine 1988
Page Views: 953
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 12, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: The Big Pucker from down below. The first bolt is...

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Description 

This route is the second bolted line right of Portent, and is easily indetified because the first bolt is about 35 feet off the ground.

Climb up to a 5.10a angled crack that leads to the first bolt using some not so tough, but burly jams. After the first bolt a secondary piece of protection should be placed in the crack before ascending a small 5.10c/d roof move that moves to hidden holds. Missing this move is NOT fun (my shoulder still hurts, I scared the hell out of some hikers when Jared let me down bleeding profusely) due to the slab that sits below this move.

After the first roof, climb up past two more bolts and a balancy 5.10c section that's easier if you're tall. Once over the top the climb is quite runout, but the climbing is only 5.2 as you move up and right to the top anchors, which are shared with The Wet Kiss (5.9).


Protection 

Mixed Route. 3 bolts, with supplimental 1,5-3" pro and some slings needed in two sections.



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By bmdhacks
Sep 24, 2013

This shares an anchor with, and is a nice toprope after leading the easier 5.9 The Wet Kiss.