Squeeze your way past a bolt at 3/4 height to the anchors on top of the pillar.
On the pillar behind Spittness, to the left of Hotsex.
Green C3, #1 C4, Red C3, 2 Blue big bros and bolt. Could protect with a gold tube.
|By Devin Fin|
May 23, 2012
ooooooo my god! hands down one of the beast squeez/OW/tower climb's in the vally .. with in view of Think Pink but you are all by your self. had the honer of being on the other end of the rope for this on sight FA it took more guts an salt then most have (now day's) to hand drill a bolt on lead 20 ft out from a blue big bro! if you have the stuff to get on this climb do it. very clean an safe sweet new route with lots of soul.. EDIT 7/23/12 OK im no spring chiken but this thing is really hard .. no shit led this thing this weeknd an did not send the rig!!! WTF KW you have my vote......EDiT NOT SO BAD after all look for my trail of tears up an in to find good edgs .... boltls are great rope pulls great ........
Dec 4, 2012
way physical. i haven't climbed a squeeze chimney in a while, and i was pretty rusty on it. i felt pretty whipped for the rest of the day. unfortunately i didn't see the bolt from below, and felt much mental discomfort. you can get decent gear through the start by using the left flake, but you will want to use really long runnders to keep the rope off the knife edge.
great job kw, henceforth if i see your initials on a plaque i will feel much intrepidation.