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Routes in Doric Column
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Big Nasty, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 |
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Grand Tour T A4+ |
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Off the Rails T A5 |
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Southeast Chimney Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Duane Raleigh and Walt Shipley (RIP) |
| Page Views: | 2,905 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Aslaksen on Nov 24, 2009 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Route Info:
Pitch 1 - Once at the base of the tower you have a couple options. You can start directly up the "toe" further downhill (we did and added a new 1/2 pitch to the first)or you can start around to the right (uphill and looks WAY more dicey...muddy 5.9 free climbing with minimal pro) towards the original route. Either way gets you to a ledge with the BIG horn anchor.
Pitch 2 - Climb up a little ways and get to a saddle. Traverse left to the seam that splits the tower. Belay at the slung flake and single new bolt.
Pitch 3 - Head right off the belay on #1 Peckers till you reach the ladder. Clip the bolts (way reachy) and then some A4 to a belay under the caprock.
Pitch 4 - Climb up to a big ledge.
Pitch 5 - Scramble to the top
Pitch 2 - Climb up a little ways and get to a saddle. Traverse left to the seam that splits the tower. Belay at the slung flake and single new bolt.
Pitch 3 - Head right off the belay on #1 Peckers till you reach the ladder. Clip the bolts (way reachy) and then some A4 to a belay under the caprock.
Pitch 4 - Climb up to a big ledge.
Pitch 5 - Scramble to the top
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