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The Big Horn 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Joe and Betsy Herbst, Matt McMackin, Randal Grandstaff
Page Views: 4,481
Submitted By: Ian Wolfe on Apr 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Ted & Doug on top of The Bighorn.

Description 

The route begins under the crack that splits the middle of the Brass Wall Left face and runs into the right side of a bushy ledge. Start underneath a large boulder.

Pitches 1 and 2 (5.7) follow the first two pitches of Birdland up the crack to a ledge and then up (or next to, depending on how you are feeling) the chimney system to a large bushy ledge. Bolted anchors.

Pitch 3 (5.3): Scramble left up some bouldery pillar features to the base of the enormous right-facing corner at the bottom of the obvious crack and build a trad anchor. 50 feet.

Pitch 4 (5.8): Climb the crack through the center of the varnished face. It starts wide and narrows to hand size before running into a lip, which forms the short crux of the climb with good hands but little feet. Finish up as the crack narrows to finger size with good face holds to a bolted anchor and rap slings. This pitch is the reason to climb this route!

Pitches 5 and 6 (5.7 R): Not recommended. Climb the face to the top of the cliff.

Rappel with 2 ropes.

Protection 

Standard Red Rock rack to a number 3 camalot. I found a set of nuts very useful on this climb.


Photos of The Big Horn Slideshow Add Photo
Party on The Big Horn, April 2011
Party on The Big Horn, April 2011
The big horn crack.
The big horn crack.
'The Big Horn' <br /> <br />
'The Big Horn'

The Big Horn. There is a slung chockstone near pitch 3
BETA PHOTO: The Big Horn. There is a slung chockstone near pit...

Comments on The Big Horn Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 13, 2013
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Nov 24, 2006

Pitch 4 was wonderful. Use your feet, they will stick better than you think.

Pitches 5 & 6 reminded me of Sunspot Ridge. If you go that far, bring a long sling or cordalette for the final anchor. You can rap the chimney to climber's right of the the route, there are slung boulders every 100 ft or so. But bring some webbing or cord to leave behind, as most of what is there is brittle. We did 2 raps down the chimney and then went out to the third stance on Birdland.
By Greg Barnes
Apr 12, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Really good, and not much wide crack climbing despite what it looks like. The crux (fingers past a tiny roof) is perfectly protected and very clean. But it is significantly harder than either Straight Shooter or the final pitch on Frigid Air Buttress (both called 5.9 or 5.9+), and so I'd call it a couple moves of 5.10a, which is of course standard for "old school 5.8" - especially Joe Herbst 5.8!
By Chris Darr
From: Golden, Co
Apr 30, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Descent information in the Brock/McMillen guidebook is dangerously vague. We took the climb to the 7th pitch to find that walking over to rap Spectrum was impossible and getting to the Beer and Ice gulley would have been grueling at best. However I will say that the top of the climb exposed a beautiful slot canyon and a perfect place for an emergency bivy - as evidenced by an old fire ring and rock shelter.
After time spent exploring (in spite of poor descent info it truly was a beautiful and secluded summit area) we down climbed the chimney to the top of the 5th pitch and did three double rop raps to the base of the crux pitch.
By Brian in SLC
Oct 19, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

We approached the classic "money" pitch on Big Horn by climbing the first two pitches of Rawlpindi which I thought made for a better start than trying to get on the crowded Birdland. Great route! I'll agree Greg, the crux is harder than 5.8 and harder than a bunch of routes rated 5.9 at Red Rocks. Two moves in a row from a flaring finger crack with poor feet. Great pro, though, so load up and fire it!

Here's another route that would benefit from a separate rap anchor, straight down the first two pitches of Rawlpindi. There's a bunch of rope eatin' terrain to rappel off the good Big Horn pitch (180'!) all the way to the 2nd pitch rap anchor on Birdland. Then, you end up tossin' ropes either on folks climbing up from below, or standing in line waiting to rappel that route.
By cassondra
From: las vegas, NV
Nov 16, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Starting on Rawalpindi is the way to go. There are features less obvious than the finger crack that make this route go with less difficulty. Really fun route, and not much competion to get on it.
By tom donnelly
Dec 1, 2011

Starting on Rawlpindi: combine P1 & P2, 195 feet
Combine P3 & P4, 170 feet. P4 is the fun 5.8 crack.
We rapped from the chain anchor over to a big ledge at the middle of Rawlpindi, and climbed the upper pitches of that route.
By NickinCO
From: colorado
Mar 5, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

did rawlpindini to get to big horn. thought rawlpindini was choss but big horn was awesome!!! great view of the clusterf*ck of people on birdland too! we counted 15 people on the route!!!
By Sara Ann
From: Sunnyvale, CA
Mar 6, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Deep in the wide crack in the middle are some hollow flakes... I wouldn't put cams there. That makes for a bit of a run-out but on pretty easy terrain.

I was glad to have a #4 as my first piece!

If you rappel from the top of P4, you can make it pretty easily to the anchor of Psycho Date, on the varnished face. HOWEVER: be prepared to lead back up to your rope (on P2 of Birdland and the 5.3 traverse), WHEN your rope gets stuck in the 5.3 section. There's got to be a better way to get down.
By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

What a great climb! We climbed the first 2 pitches of Rawlpindi to get to the base of the good pitch of The Big Horn. The top of the crack has 2 bolts with rap rings, where you can rap with 2 ropes to a slung chockstone (with 2 slings and 2 biners) which can take you back to the base of the climb. We got our rope stuck on the last rap though...
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 3, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The best way to rappel is to rappel from the new anchor at the top of the Big Horn crack down to the ledge at the base of the crack with one rope. From there, scramble over to the Birdland anchors and rappel that route.
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Nov 13, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route was a delight--fun moves, striking features, beautiful varnish, and no crowds.

I was surprised to find that the climbing was much friendlier than its appearance would suggest, with more 5.6 moves than there were 5.8 moves. Also, there were generous edges and plentiful stances from which to place gear(which was great once you get that first bomber #4).

I'm 5'1" and found the crux to be at no harder than the grade implies. (not reach-dependent, which was a nice surprise.) As Cassondra mentioned upthread, don't overlook the other features available besides the crack.

The approach via the first two pitches of Rawlpindi made a nice warm up. Will definitely come back again for this one.