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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Anchovy Caper, The S 
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 
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Barbershop Duet T 
Big Easy, The S 
Boats from Cuba T 
Bonnie and Clyde S 
Bourbon Street S 
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Scene of the Crime S 
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Slack T 
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White Buttress, The T 

The Big Easy 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 2/05
Page Views: 3,594
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 29, 2007

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View from top of P1.

Description 

This is a link up that combines new and borrowed parts of older routes, resulting in a three pitch 5.8+ that goes the full height of the cliff.

Pitch one: is a fun ramble up moderate (5.7)rock. The first few moves will make you look like a super star without too much effort thanks to the super jugs on the steep rock. A few interesting moves after that but mostly jug hauling to a nice ledge with an anchor. Most people lower off from here for a nice single pitch sport route. If continuing above, you can combine this with the next, short pitch, or stop here and combine the next two.

Pitch two: From the ledge, head up and left through a notch at about 5.7, then continue angling left on easier ground to the Sesame Street anchor (this pitch is short but has few cool moves) The bolts leading straight up after the notch rather than heading over to the anchors is an alternative pitch Bourbon Street' that goes at 5.10c.

Pitch three: From the Sesame anchors continue directly up a corner and easy (5.4) eyebolt protected ground to a bolted anchor. This pitch is pleasant, but it was never fully cleaned, so be aware of a large, potentially loose rock on the side and that you are probably climbing above people who can't see you. If you are going to continue up the next, trad pitch, The White Buttress, 5.9, you may want to continue above the bolted anchors and belay from a tree.

Pitch four: See the description for The White Buttress.

Getting down: From the pitch one anchor at the ledge, you can lower with a 60m rope. From the 2nd or 3rd pitches you will need to do a couple raps, but be very aware of people below and knocking stuff down on them. If you go all the way to the top of the White Buttress it is best to hike down. If you walk a bit back you will run into the Overland trail. Right (safest but longer)takes you over to Orange Crush in a minute where you can follow the trail down. Left crosses the seasonal stream that forms the Venus Falls. If you cross it and follow it down a little, you can scramble down to the right above and then down the edge of the Venus Wall (exposed) This is fastest, but not suggested unless you have already come up that way and know your way around. Screw up and you can easily come down too fast.


Location 

Just right of sesame street (5.10c) start on steep somewhat dirty but juggy rock.


Protection 

10 bolts to 1st anchor anchor. 60m rope is a good idea i think.



Photos of The Big Easy Slideshow Add Photo
David Following Jay on Pitch 1
David Following Jay on Pitch 1
Jared starts up the steep crux start, while i, the belayer... shoot pictures?... that doesnt sound right...
Jared starts up the steep crux start, while i, the...
Just above the first bolt.
Just above the first bolt.
A view from the swimming hole of The Big Easy
A view from the swimming hole of The Big Easy
At the upper anchors
At the upper anchors
Comments on The Big Easy Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 7, 2013
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 26, 2007

This is a link up that combines new and borrowed parts of older routes, resulting in a three pitch 5.8+ that goes the full height of the cliff. If going higher and not just doing the first pitch as a sport pitch (lowering back to your belayer), you can continue climbing directly to the Sesame anchors as 1 pitch, skipping the belay on the ledge. The second pitch (or 3rd if you belay at the first anchor) of this route starts off of the Sesame Street anchors. It is nice but very easy, and has not been cleaned. It has a large loose flake on it that needs to be removed. Be careful of it, for yourself and those below.

There is a two eyebolt anchor on top of the pitch above Sesame,just below the tree ledge. If you are going to do the last pitch of Slick, up the white buttress, mantel onto the tree ledge and belay from a tree. This last pitch has not been retroed yet and there is no top anchor I think it took small to medium gear with an old pin or two (5.8 might be a sandbag compared to the bottom ;) )

-Edited to clarify

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 20, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

there is a big chunk that broke off about two bolts below the anchor, no harder just have to work left then back to the next bolt

By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Aug 4, 2009

So if you wanted to do the multi pitch parts of this route then you would have to do three pitches in order to finish it up? How can you go about doing this?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 5, 2009

I never got back to finish cleaning and equipping this. What you would do though is climb the first pitch of the Big Easy, but continue past the belay ledge up through the notch to the belay at the top of Sesame St. A line of bolts leads up directly from there ( uncleaned so watch out for a large loose rock). From the next belay, below a tree ledge, you would scramble up over a short vegetated area to reach the left side of the high white buttress at the top of the cliff. There is a rt angling seam with a pin or 2 in it that is the last pitch of Slick. Tim Gotwols said that I could clean and bolt it, but I haven't found a time when I was there, the cliff was open and there was nobody below

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 5, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

oh that makes much more sense now, is it about the same grade to climb to the anchors of Sesame St? or do you meet up witht he upper crux of Sesame St?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 24, 2009

You go around the Sesame crux and come at the anchors from the right, so same 5.7 grade

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 29, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

FA Mark Sprague 2/05

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
May 29, 2010

In 1982, the upper half of the first pitch of the 'Big Easy' was the original 2nd pitch of 'Metamorphosis'. The 2nd pitch originally began up the obvious left facing ramp corner of 'Metamorphosis'. The 3rd pitch was done that year.
I made attempts on rappel to improve the 1st pitch higher up section (including trying to nail into a crack a railroad spike. After failing at that I gave up on the route. I Climbed it this spring. The start is a stick clip or had a crazy commitment to reach the first bolt for us. My arms aren't has strong as they used too be.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jun 13, 2010

On the way up Bourbon Street I noticed a bolt on this 2nd (or 3rd if you are referencing the new guide book) pitch. Without knowing about anchors above Sesame Street, I extended the 2nd bolt in the starting corner of the 2nd pitch. I snuck past the right side of a tree to the bolt I had seen below but realized I didn't have a runner for this bolt so decided to run out to the next bolt above on easy ground. Next time i'll have to try and find the anchors I should have been at.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 11, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

You should really do the first and second pitch as a single pitch, there will be a little more rope drag but if you dont the second pitch on has one bolt and is boring by itself, its maybe 25 feet with only ten feet of fun climbing. So run P1 and P2 together :)

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
May 29, 2012

So I'm not sure, but the last bolt before the anchors on pitch 1 felt completely out of reach. I found myself 3 or 4 feet to the left of it and decided it was less sketchy to skip the bolt than to try to clip it. Am I using bad beta? Or did a hold break? The specific route I took up this climb felt very natural.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I remember feeling the same, I always end up clipping it when it is by my waist because getting up higher seems to make it easier. Not sure if a hold broke or what but it is a little out of reach...

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 29, 2012

I think I remember the last bolt being a hip clip with a little reach, but it shouldn't be anything that feels sketchy. If possible I always make my bolts so somebody 4' 11" can still clip without too much problem. You might have to relax and use smaller foot holds though. I wouldn't be surprised if something broke. Some of the flakes are kind of soft.

By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Mar 27, 2013

My three stars are for the first pitch. It's a lot of fun and I can't ask for a better moderate to warm up on. I found the next pitch(es) to not be as good but it's a fun way to get to the top and worth it for the view alone. We combined the "second pitch" with the third pitch and did two clean raps back to the base. I'd recommend this method as the second pitch is just one bolt to the sesame street anchors. Don't fall here as it's a bit run out and I can't imagine it would be good for your rope with the flake and corner. It's pretty easy climbing though.

By J Meagher
Dec 6, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Anybody know about the trad pitch Slick that goes up the flake above the first pitch anchors? The guidebook says its 5.9 and I was wondering if its worth doing

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 7, 2013

As the book says, the corner is very nice but the exit from the corner has fallen off... i did it with the original exit and ive been on it since... id say its worth playing on on a TR after doing bourbon street... there are much better trad routes to do though before you bother bringing extra gear up there... do Space Shuttle! that thing is rad!

By S. Neoh
Dec 7, 2013

Yeah, SS is nice. Be ready to clean off the cob webs on the way up tho. If memory serves, the gear on this is relatively easy to place and bomber.
For more adventure, try Boats From Cuba and deal with blocks (some loose) and crimps instead :)