The Big Chill 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001 |
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Navagating the Vertical Canvas.
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Description This is just right of Menses. It is not quite as clean or nice as that line, but it is still a fun, bolted, layback crack line. Follow the bolted crack until the bolts move left onto the face.
Protection 7 bolts up to a 2 bolt anchor.
| Comments on The Big Chill |
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By ROC From: Englewood, CO Dec 8, 2003
| My first outdoor lead! Good climb. Seemed hard as hell at the time, but I'm sure it really ain't too bad. Nerves got the best of me being my first lead. |
By Michael Amato Oct 18, 2004
| Relatively good climbing with poor bolt placement... the bolts imply a face climb while the moves imply a crack climb, likely an attempt by the FA party to affoid controversy involved with bolting a crack - ? |
By Tevis Blom Oct 18, 2004
| we did this route once sticking to the face , and once in the crack. I think the crack is overall steeper/more pumpy, but the face is more thin. The upper just follows the crack pretty much, but I remember great pockets higher up. |
By Tevis Blom Oct 18, 2004
| P.S. you can also jam the crack insead of laybacking. |
By Brandon Schirm From: colorado springs, co Mar 5, 2008
| The bolt placement was fine, if you place bolts to the right more the rock isn't as good. I would rather reach to clip than fall on a bad bolt. |
By Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Apr 13, 2008
| The bolts require some traversing from the crack to clip, but it's definitely the crack you want to climb. |
By Kenan Oct 10, 2012 rating: 5.10c
| I've climbed this a couple of times, and while it's a good route, I have to agree with the bolt line being too far left. The crack is clearly the natural line here, and the bolt line is far enough left to make it feel awkward staying in the crack. I felt constantly pulled out of the crack towards face moves farther left in order to move back to the bolt line. Perhaps the FA party was trying to offer 2 variations with a single bolt line? Or perhaps as Amato said they were trying to avoid controversy by bolting the crack? It would be interesting to hear from the FA party.... Not sure if I agree with the comment about the rock quality being too bad to bolt a bit farther right. This isn't a huge safety issue, just strange enough to make it feel awkward. |
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