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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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Warm-up T 

The Big Baby 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Rich Wyatt
Page Views: 11,185
Submitted By: Jason Haas on Oct 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Where's Waldo? The 11+ offwidth testpiece, Big Bab...

Description 

This line is located near the left side of the Battle of the Bulge Wall and would be hard to miss.

Start underneath a one-foot roof and climb a wide-hands crack for 15ft. to the roof. Be careful of the loose flakes inside this initial crack. Pull over the roof on fists to wide fists. Battle up the crack for another 30ft. until you can get a knee in. Work up the crack as it gradually widens to chain anchors.

I got some key beta afterwards from Vera the offwidth master, who recommended climbing the route in sticky rubber approach shoes. I had a hard time keeping my feet from slipping and I agree that approach shoes would give you that extra little width for good foot jams.

Location 

On the left end of Battle of the Bulge Wall, immediately left of Our Piece of the Real Estate.

Protection 

(based on the old camalot size) #3.5, (3) #4, (3)4.5, (3) #5 camalot. New #6 Camalots are good too for the top. There's also a single piton bolt almost 1/2 way up, just before you can get your knee in the crack. FYI - The new #6 camalots are too large for the crack.


Photos of The Big Baby Slideshow Add Photo
Getting established over the roof. Such a rad crack! <br />Photo by Jacob Buckner
Getting established over the roof. Such a rad crac...
Sam approaching the business on Big Baby
Sam approaching the business on Big Baby
Jason Haas near the top of Big Baby
Jason Haas near the top of Big Baby
By this point I had burned 735 calories. I am nearly at the C1 section, or I mean, above the roof...
By this point I had burned 735 calories. I am near...
Jason Haas pulling over the crux roof on Big Baby
Jason Haas pulling over the crux roof on Big Baby
James Cherry on The Big Baby
James Cherry on The Big Baby
Matt Brubaker aka Dean at the bottom of Big Baby showing that he is not a big baby.  Photo taken by Trask Bradbury
Matt Brubaker aka Dean at the bottom of Big Baby s...
Sam about to make short work of the crux on Big Baby
Sam about to make short work of the crux on Big Ba...
Wide gear
Wide gear
I'm a Big Baby!
I'm a Big Baby!
At the crux.  Photo by Joan G.  Climber:  Ed from Durango
At the crux. Photo by Joan G. Climber: Ed from ...
Ken Thompson leading the Big Baby. Photo by Ryan Willard.
Ken Thompson leading the Big Baby. Photo by Ryan W...

Comments on The Big Baby Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 25, 2013
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Dec 6, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Getting established above the roof was burley, for me it was very rattly fists. Sure one can lay it back, but why deprive yourself? As my first "real" desert offwidth, I learned a lot on this thing. Very different technique required than other offwidths that I have done. Suffice to say, my hip flexors and abs got a full workout. I will return after my technique improves. Also, as stated in the description, the new BD #6 definitely does not fit here.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Nov 26, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This is a great route and a real test of your offwidth skills. If your hands are to small to get fists over the roof then your in for some real trouble. After fighting your way past the pin you should be able to get your knee in and finally rest (kind of). Have fun.
By Greg Cameron
Apr 3, 2008

I went up there with just two new No. 5s (Camalots) and was wishing I had a No. 6 for the last 10-15 feet. Those No. 5s were tipped out for much of the last part. I have a hard time believing that a No. 6 would not fit up there.

This is a hard and interesting route requiring multiple OW techniques.
By Bart Paull
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 23, 2008

The gear beta for the route isn't totally correct. You can easily fit a #6 Wild Country Friend or new #6 Camalot in the crack for about half the route. If you only have old #5 Camalots they will be very tipped out. I would recommend two #6 Friends or Camalots. You can also use #2 Bigbros for much of the route, and there are a few spots where a #3 Bigbro will work.
By slim
Administrator
Oct 24, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

yeah, when i did it a 6 friend was useful for a lot of the upper half, particularly the last stretch to the anchors. definitely worth bringing. i thought the crux was the roof. i had heard it was fists, but it was off fists for me and required a change in plan-of-attack.
By Jonas Wiklund
Nov 8, 2008

I agree with the guys above, two WC#6 or new camalot #6 are nice to have. The guidebook seems to have given bad presendence on giving detailed gear-beta for routes obviously not done by the author.
By Darren Knezek
May 10, 2009

FA= Rich Wyatt
By A. Wolaver
From: Golden, CO
Dec 4, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

One of the coolest desert OWs ever. I'm not sure why the pin remains on this climb. Not only does it mar the climb aesthetically, but it often causes the rope to run a little odd considering the gear is deep and the pin is about 1.5' outside of the crack. Don't clip it!
By slim
Administrator
Dec 4, 2009
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

i actually kind of find the pin handy, as it pulls the rope out of the way for a little while. curious that it is there though, maybe the FA party didn't have much for wide gear. if i remember correctly, the pin comes before you can get your knee in, so drilling it on lead must have been exciting.
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Oct 21, 2013

next time 3#4, 4#5,2#6
By Kris Schrijvers
Dec 25, 2013

Had only a double rope that got stuck between knees or foot. No reason to give up, got it OS. I normally push up one cam, but it makes it more dangerous without a bomber kneelock. Just curious for solutions for not getting rope stuck between my feet of knees!
I used #2, #3, #4, two # 5's. Did not used the pin (bolt).