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The Big Angler 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type: Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: D. Quinn
Page Views: 765
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 19, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Jeff starting out on Big Angler.

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The bolt line to the right of F**king The Dog (5.11d) is somewhat newly bolted and is pretty fun if you like thin cracks and crimping...

Follow the eye bolts along the thin crack up and right... When the crack fizzles out climb straight up on crimps then back left to the anchors...


The bolt line right of F**king the Dog...


eye bolts to anchor...

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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 14, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

does anyone else have any more disguinshing features about this five route? the the crux about five bolts up going from a slot to a crimp then pulling over a little ledge?

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 15, 2009

there has been some retrobolting in this area so i am only reporting what i have come up with by climbing the route and looking on other sites to figure out what ive climbed... my description describes it the best way i know how... and yes the picture you commented on shows parts of this climb...

or you could just climb all the routes there and then you know you did it :)

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 15, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

maybe i will have to do them all haha

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 15, 2009

sounds like your best bet...haha... though the routes are good over there its kinda clustered and confusing when compared to the old guide book before so many bolts went in...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 15, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

yeah i agree thats where my confusion stems from

By twellman
May 18, 2010

There are a couple of big ledges to stand on before the crux if you just take a step off to the right. They allow you to get fully rested before the crux, which then amounts to a quick boulder problem. This one felt quite different than its neighbor to the left, though about equally difficult. Both right on that 10d/11a line, and worth doing.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This route is fun, and the crux has similar movement to Sky Pilot .11b at the 5.8 Crag. It is certainly easier than that route but the crux movement is similar.

This climb is like climbing a 5.9 face to a good rest then a hard crux move, which is where the .11a grade come from.

By David Quinn
Sep 30, 2013

I led this route on trad gear, ground up, following the angling thin crack, (part of the reason for the name), to a large block with a crack behind it, (the block has since be removed as it was sketchy loose)I then climbed straight up the face to the pine tree. I bolted the route after several people requested.