The B.F.G. 5.13
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| Type: | Sport, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13 [details] |
| FA: | Roald Dahl |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | LeeAB on Sep 2, 2012 |
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Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This variation to the finish of Goliath keeps the climber right on the arete for the duration. By staying on the arete a handful of hard moves are added past where one would pull right onto the face. Slightly harder than Goliath.
The top is still a bit flakey. Will be worth more stars with more traffic.
Location Goliath and then some more arete.
Protection After the steepest part of the Goliath arete continue past 4 bolts just left of the a ret to the top.
By Eric Whitbeck
Sep 6, 2012
| Why two stars? It looked pretty cool from the old line. Does it just need traffic? |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Sep 6, 2012
| Yeah, its a little flaky in spots above where the hard climbing ends and some of the pockets will still fill with sand and need to be cleaned out before attempting. For reference, I hung draws on Goliath for someone and brushed out the pockets when lowering down prior to sending the route, I still had the lip of a pocket higher up crumble while I was pulling on it. So, yeah, with more action it should clean up and certainly be worth 3 stars, super fun slapping on the arete above where Goliath moves right onto the face. |
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 6, 2012
| Sounds like a cool line and a worthwhile addition. Pics?? |
By Eric Whitbeck
Sep 7, 2012
| Cool, it may end up being the line since it is more direct and stays on the arete and in the steeps. No one climbs Goliath to get to the slab, but because of the position and BFG seems like a great continuation. Funny how these things sit around for years sometimes. It seems like a very obvious extension/variation. |
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 15, 2013
rating: 5.13b
| This would be 4 stars and ultra classic like Goliath if it was the original line instead of a variation. As it cleans up it will be an easy three stars. Adds another 2 bolts of hard climbing, then you get some nice rests so the very top is still trivial. I'm guessing 13b since I've always considered Goliath to be on the upper side of 13a. |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 15, 2013
| Yeah, I figured a letter harder than Goliath |
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