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 ADVANCED
South/Southeast (Right) Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
B.F.G., The S 
Flotsam & Jetsam S 
Golden Stairs S 
Goliath S 
Hippogriff S 
Medusa S 
Shipwrecked S 

The B.F.G. 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Roald Dahl
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 643
Submitted By: LeeAB on Sep 2, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This variation to the finish of Goliath keeps the climber right on the arete for the duration. By staying on the arete a handful of hard moves are added past where one would pull right onto the face. Slightly harder than Goliath.

The top is still a bit flakey. Will be worth more stars with more traffic.

Location 

Goliath and then some more arete.

Protection 

After the steepest part of the Goliath arete continue past 4 bolts just left of the a ret to the top.


Comments on The B.F.G. Add Comment
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By Eric Whitbeck
Sep 6, 2012

Why two stars? It looked pretty cool from the old line. Does it just need traffic?
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Sep 6, 2012

Yeah, its a little flaky in spots above where the hard climbing ends and some of the pockets will still fill with sand and need to be cleaned out before attempting. For reference, I hung draws on Goliath for someone and brushed out the pockets when lowering down prior to sending the route, I still had the lip of a pocket higher up crumble while I was pulling on it. So, yeah, with more action it should clean up and certainly be worth 3 stars, super fun slapping on the arete above where Goliath moves right onto the face.
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 6, 2012

Sounds like a cool line and a worthwhile addition. Pics??
By Eric Whitbeck
Sep 7, 2012

Cool, it may end up being the line since it is more direct and stays on the arete and in the steeps. No one climbs Goliath to get to the slab, but because of the position and BFG seems like a great continuation. Funny how these things sit around for years sometimes. It seems like a very obvious extension/variation.
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 15, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

This would be 4 stars and ultra classic like Goliath if it was the original line instead of a variation. As it cleans up it will be an easy three stars. Adds another 2 bolts of hard climbing, then you get some nice rests so the very top is still trivial. I'm guessing 13b since I've always considered Goliath to be on the upper side of 13a.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 15, 2013

Yeah, I figured a letter harder than Goliath