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The best cracks of the north east
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By Aaron L.
Feb 1, 2013
Hiking in the Adirondacks

I can't believe that no one has mentioned "They Died Laughing" at Cathedral. Sure, the location is not ideal as some of the other stuff on this list. But in terms of awesome jamming, protection reliability, and ease of access, its one of my favorite 5.9's anywhere!

mountainproject.com/v/they-died-laughing/105909672


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By scott e. tarrant
From Fort Collins
Feb 1, 2013
kate!

women in love


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By john strand
From southern colo
Feb 1, 2013

Women may be the best multi pich climb on the crag.esp with the Wild start.. the face crux is pretty tough


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By Christopher Gagne
From Dover
Feb 2, 2013
me on into another world pawtuckaway

This line is out of my range but is a beautiful line to look at and sees little to no action.
Speckman's 5.12 Devil's Den Pawtuckaway


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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From Havertown, PA
Feb 2, 2013
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adirondacks, NY.

David Powers wrote:
Hot Seat in Hell at Wheeler Mt. will knock your socks off. A bit hard to find though.


That's a fact, David! Love that route and it's neighbor, "Eagle Point Crack".

And to reiterate what Derek D. said about the Vermont cracks...all great routes, and worth the visit if in the area.

Gunks--Resistance, Persistence, Lost City Crack, Ants' Line, and Ken's Crack.

Green Mt. Breakdown, Old Town, and that really great 5.9 to the left of Wafer Step...can't recall the name. All at the Precipice, Acadia.


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By M LaViolette Jr.
From The Past
Feb 2, 2013
Wolverine on Predator (5.13b) Rumney.

It's short, but it's pretty sweet. Double Helix at Rose Ledge.

Double Helix (aka Rikert's Corner) is the line on the left.  Stetson Stumble (5.8) is the line on the right.
Double Helix (aka Rikert's Corner) is the line on the left. Stetson Stumble (5.8) is the line on the right.


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By S. Neoh
Feb 3, 2013

5.9 left of Wafer Step? Is that Recollections of Pacifica?
I have never been on Pacifica but I have been on Return To Forever and it is great. Connecticut Cracks is good too, though not one continuous crack.


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By GMBurns
Feb 3, 2013
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil. <br /> <br />(photo by Isa Vellozo)

S. Neoh wrote:
5.9 left of Wafer Step? Is that Recollections of Pacifica? I have never been on Pacifica but I have been on Return To Forever and it is great. Connecticut Cracks is good too, though not one continuous crack.


Yeah, Pacifca. I wouldn't really call Pacifica a crack climb. Yeah, it has a crack at the start, but the crux is on the slabby part up above.


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By J. Nickel
Feb 3, 2013

Re: Jim Lawyer, Release the Kraken @ Pinnacle
+1! A spectacular steep crack. 11c/d?
Hoping to send this year.
Jonathan


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By jake 356
From worcester
Feb 3, 2013

Really short 30ft or so at lookout rock 3-4" wide over hanging. 45 degre left leaning 5.11 I believe
Can't remember the name it's in Boston rocks ill find the pic I took of it


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By David Powers
Feb 4, 2013

Old Town and They Died laughing are both great. Good suggestions. I am sure we are missing a lot of the obvious ones.

Hey Derek,

Sounds good, lets make it happen in the spring. I will show you mine if you show me yours ; )


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By Eric Engberg
Feb 4, 2013

Gotta represent MA a little more - Jane, Cro-Mag and Intertwine at Crow - although you can face climb a lot on all those. Yosemite and Barndoor at Farley.


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By JCM
From Henderson, NV
Feb 4, 2013

MaxSuffering wrote:
Adirondacks: Drop, Fly or Die On The Loose TR Fear And loathing in Keene Valley Tequila mockingbird Arachnid Traction Coy Dog Tennessee Excursion Forever Wild Fastest Gun (pitches 1, 2 + 4) Fear Of Touching Aerie (AKA: the Moss Cliff Linkup) Mystery Achievement Windjammer


That is a great starter list of classic ADK cracks. NH locals may protest this, but I think that the Dacks have the best collection and concentration of crack climbs in the Northeast.

A few more favorite ADK crack climbs.

Butterflies are Free to Partition; Washbowl Cliff.
Best 5.9 linkup around, 2 pitches. First pitch has nice 5.9 hand crack, 2nd pitch is amazing 5.8+ handcrack in a huge dihedral.

Octoberfist (5.10+), Upper Tiers, Poko
Way-obscure due to location, but superb. Not too tall (60 feet?) but sustained and steep. Crux is a green Camalot section in a slight bulge.

White Knight (12a) Spiders Web
Soooooo good. Basically everything else at the Web deserves to be at the top of this list as well.


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By Eric Chabot
From Thetford Ctr, VT
Feb 10, 2013

Marshfield Corners, p3
Marshfield Corners, p3



Marshfield corners p3! VT...awesome setting, needs more traffic. 10b


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By stephen arsenault
Mar 3, 2013

A few more:

Duet Direct-Cannon

I like the 3rd pitch of Intimidation-Cathedral

Perhaps already mentioned-Nutcracker-Classic!

Did Unconquerable Crack at Ragged, last Fall-really great!


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By burlap submariner
Mar 4, 2013

David should we count this as a crack?

yeah i think it counts.....
yeah i think it counts.....


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By burlap submariner
Mar 4, 2013

and my favorite for a rainy day in north conway.

the alcove
the alcove


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By john strand
From southern colo
Mar 4, 2013

burlap submariner wrote:
David should we count this as a crack?


It's almost a crack, few more years. More of a craaaaa


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By GabeO
From Denver, CO
Mar 4, 2013

Two that haven't been mentioned but are truly very good, and are in MA of all places: Barn Door and Yosemite Crack at Farley.

GO


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By chris magness
Mar 8, 2013

The Black Wonton at Deer Leap.

Well, not really. But it is a trad line and I can't help but give my routes a shameless plug now and then (the name being one of the best parts of the route).

I doubt that this line has seen a repeat:

www.mountainproject.com/v/the-black-wonton/107679032


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By scott rourke
Mar 8, 2013

There was a super cool thin crack at Bolton called Footloose, I think it may be closed now but it's at the base of the obvious biggest headwall close to Rt. 89. There's also a crazy roof crack in a giant boulder right next to it.


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By doligo
Mar 8, 2013
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style

Gunks - Harvest Moon and Sonja for splitters, The Golden Dream is a cool corner.


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By john strand
From southern colo
Mar 9, 2013

The best crack in the Gunks is closed


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