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The best cracks of the north east
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By burlap submariner
Jan 27, 2013
Every ones favorites? GIVE IT UP!!!!

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By john strand
From southern colo
Jan 27, 2013
Good one Burlap, you must be bored !

Budapest.. Cathedral 11+

Screaming Yellow Zonkers... woodchuck 11+

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By MaxSuffering
From KVNY
Jan 27, 2013
Adirondacks:
Drop, Fly or Die
On The Loose
TR
Fear And loathing in Keene Valley
Tequila mockingbird
Arachnid Traction
Coy Dog
Tennessee Excursion
Forever Wild
Fastest Gun (pitches 1, 2 + 4)
Fear Of Touching Aerie (AKA: the Moss Cliff Linkup)
Mystery Achievement
Windjammer

Gunks:
Resistance

New Hampshire:
Crack In The Woods (gets grungy after the first anchor but this was huge for me when I first did it)
Retaliation
Nutcracker
Screaming Yellow Zonkers (okay, I'll admit I only got this one on toprope -hard, NO chance of me onsighing!)
Vultures

Vermont:
The Rose

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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Jan 27, 2013
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.
I'll bite.
I haven’t been on Budapest yet. I haven’t really done a lot on Cathedral. Embarrassed to say I haven’t even been on Airation yet. My partners who are into trad have already done it a bunch of times so I don’t ask them do it again. From pictures it looks great though and is on my list. Screaming Yellow Zonkers is really good. I wouldn’t quite give it the 4 stars a lot of people do, for its lack of length and the fact that the crack doesn’t start until 20 feet of eh climbing. It is a lot of fun though and doesn’t seem short when you are pumping out on that last flaring jam at the top. Crack in the Woods is on my list to do. I am hoping to get in this year and replace the old anchor and give it a scrub.
When people ask about cracks I usually list the outback classics at Owl’s and Green’s Cliffs, NH, since less people know about them.
Owl’s: Crack of the Future – one pitch 12b/c finger crack. It requires finger tip jamming, but also lots of face climbing skills.
Maybe 30 feet to the right is another finger crack, White Owl 11d. Not quite as classic as Crack of the Future, but really good
Crack of the World 4 pitches 11c, again at Owl’s .It is not all crack climbing, but the positioning of the arching rattly hand crack on the 3rd pitch just makes you have to do it.
Green’s Cliff area: Greenpeace – 200 ft 11d/12a straight up finger and hand crack.
Stewart’s Crack – 2 pitch old school 5.9+,strong 9+ hand crack in a corner up to the second pitch which is probably more like 10+ of flaring, angling, wideness to chimney , hands and fingers.
CT: haven’t really climbed there in decades after getting turned off by the KN scene, but Dol Guldur 5.11 at East Peak was great and Forearm Frenzy 11b at Chatfield Hollow was a lot of fun.

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By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Jan 27, 2013
I thought I'd add some lesser-known pure-crack routes to MaxSuffering's list from the Adirondacks. In my opinion, these are indeed some of the best around:

Father Knows Best (Lost Hunters)
Plumb Line (Crane Mountain)
Release the Kraken (Pinnacle Mountain)
Little Kisses (Lost T)
Tombstone (Deadwater)
Elusive Bastard (Twin Falls Cliff)

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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Jan 27, 2013
modern man
M Sprague wrote:
CT: haven’t really climbed there in decades after getting turned off by the KN scene, but Dol Guldur 5.11 at East Peak was great and Forearm Frenzy 11b at Chatfield Hollow was a lot of fun.


the "KN scene" did one good thing for CT cracks, not meaning you specifically

and yeah, Forearm Frenzy, Unconquerable, Vector, Pegasus, Thors Hammer are classics anywhere. Dol Guldor gets one star on Mtn Proj go figure.

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By MaxSuffering
From KVNY
Jan 28, 2013
Tombstone and Airation! Not sure how I missed either of those, both classics. Also forgot about some good cracks at Sliver Lake -Handlebarbarism to Hairy Upper Lip Drip for a good one-two punch.

Thanks Jim, you just added to my tick list for this summer.

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By Ross Henry
Jan 28, 2013
me in seneca
Kens crack at the Gunks was a good one as well

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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Jan 28, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
North Country Club Crack at Jewels and Jems is a fun 5.6.

Rockaholic at Beer Walls is a good 5.8.

Gamesmanship and the Sting at Poke O, both 5.8.

I haven't done it, but I'm sure Little Finger at Rogers Rock has a place on the list, if for the setting alone.

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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Jan 28, 2013
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.
Ross Henry wrote:
Kens crack at the Gunks was a good one as well

Is that that really sweet little 5.7 near the trashcan overhang at the Uberfall area? I remember that as one of my early leads and loving it. There must be a line 20 deep for it nowadays.

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By Derek Doucet
Jan 28, 2013
I'll add a few little known (outside of Vermont) Green Mountain classics, all at Upper West Bolton: The Rose Crack is 60' of straight in, seriously overhanging hands and fists at .10a. Good meat and potatos fun and a nice warm up for its neighbors. Right next to it is the Thorn, which has less pure jamming but is equally good, just as steep, and a few letter grades harder. As long as you're doing the Thorn, I highly recommend "The Prick Finish" variation which adds another 20' of awesome climbing in case you're not worked yet. Then there's the Onceler which while short is definitely a three star 5.11 with some awesome fingers. Running a few laps on each guarantees a good pump for most.

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By john strand
From southern colo
Jan 28, 2013
Mark- Stewart's must be so good now..clean and all. It sure was a hard and dirty "5.8"

Let us not forget Peanut Gallery

IMO Budapest is the best single pitch on Cathedral

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By John Husky
Jan 31, 2013
Reppys
Vertigo
I also like Ravens Crack, even though it sent me packing last time.
Pitch 3 of Moby is always a treat.

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By GMBurns
Jan 31, 2013
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil. <br /> <br />(photo by Isa Vellozo)
Pine Tree Eliminate
Reppys
Ken's Crack
Ant's Line

Just a few

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By S. Neoh
Jan 31, 2013
The state of ME has quite a few nice crack climbs to offer.

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By JChepes
From Chocorua, NH
Jan 31, 2013
Lumberjack crack at Found on the Kanc.
The Start and the Horn at Pway and the BBB route at Stonehouse. Short but punchy southern NH fun.
Center Crack, Dear Leap VT.

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By David Powers
Feb 1, 2013
Hot Seat in Hell at Wheeler Mt. will knock your socks off. A bit hard to find though.

Hot Seat
Hot Seat


Another favorite of mine is Once Upon a Crack in Barton VT. 60' of 5.9 spitter granite right on the side of the road.

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Feb 1, 2013
Devil's Cut Beta
David Powers wrote:
Hot Seat in Hell at Wheeler Mt. will knock your socks off. A bit hard to find though. Another favorite of mine is Once Upon a Crack in Barton VT. 60' of 5.9 spitter granite right on the side of the road.


That thing is killllller looking...

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By Jon Clark
From Philadelphia, PA
Feb 1, 2013
onsight soloing Atman
Southern Hospitality @ Poke-O

White Knight @ Spider's Web
It's Only Entertainment @ Spider's Web
Pretty much all of Spider's Web

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By jim.dangle
Feb 1, 2013
David Powers wrote:
Hot Seat in Hell at Wheeler Mt. will knock your socks off. A bit hard to find though. Another favorite of mine is Once Upon a Crack in Barton VT. 60' of 5.9 spitter granite right on the side of the road.



Whoa! Is this area written up on that new Vermonth guide? If so I have to get that.

Jim

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By Derek Doucet
Feb 1, 2013
jim.dangle wrote:
Whoa! Is this area written up on that new Vermonth guide? If so I have to get that. Jim


Yes.

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By Derek Doucet
Feb 1, 2013
Jonathan Clark wrote:
Southern Hospitality @ Poke-O White Knight @ Spider's Web It's Only Entertainment @ Spider's Web Pretty much all of Spider's Web


All awesome recommendations. As long as we're talking Poko, we'll need to toss in Amongst the Crowds and Macho, too.

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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Feb 1, 2013
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.
That picture of Hot Seat reminded me of this one of Lumberjack Crack at Found Ledge, NH 60ft and a little easier at 11c.

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By David Powers
Feb 1, 2013
Lumberjack Crack looks pretty sweet. Hot Seat is much more slabby. Hot Seat is 100', at half height it turns into an off-width after a small roof. I believe the consensus is .11d.

I feel like i have been to quite a variety of crags around new England. Sad to say i have yet to even see the Rose and The Thorn. The Rose looks ultra classic.

The Cracks Mark mentioned at Greens are some of the best i have done due to their length and setting.

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By Derek Doucet
Feb 1, 2013
David Powers wrote:
Lumberjack Crack looks pretty sweet. Hot Seat is much more slabby. Hot Seat is 100', at half height it turns into an off-width after a small roof. I believe the consensus is .11d. I feel like i have been to quite a variety of crags around new England. Sad to say i have yet to even see the Rose and The Thorn. The Rose looks ultra classic. The Cracks Mark mentioned at Greens are some of the best i have done due to their length and setting.


Hey Dave,

Funny, I was just thinking how I need to get up your way and check out Hot Seat. Let us know if you ever come down here. We'll show you around.

Cheers,

Derek

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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Feb 1, 2013
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.
Thanks for the correction, Dave. I edited my post.

We need more pictures of these cracks and why people think they are good.

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