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The "best" climber in the world
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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Dec 24, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
a 5.14a trad is more impressive than a 5.15c sport imo.

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By mozeman
Dec 24, 2012
superkick wrote:
Fred Beckey? He has more FAs than prob anyone alive.. (or dead?)


agreed and also would like to mention Herb and Jan Conn, just for the sheer amount of badassery they had up until january of this year when Herb Passed away.

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By JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Dec 24, 2012
Gunking
superkick wrote:
a 5.14a trad is more impressive than a 5.15c sport imo.


Single pitch? That seems sort of silly.

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By mozeman
Dec 24, 2012
Austin Baird wrote:
Tommy Caldwell? I don't know if he does much alpine, but I'm WAY more impressed at someone climbing 7 5.14 trad pitches on the Dawn Wall than any of the 5.15s that the hard sport climbers have done.



He does but it tends to go unnoticed because it is not as "impressive" as Cerro Torre or Speed ascents of the Eiger or the Sharks Fin....But he does in fact have multiple Alpine FA's including one in the Brooks Range of Alaska that he accomplished with Hayden Kennedy and Corey Rich earlier this year that was featured on "Flying Wild in Alaska".


EDIT: to add a FFA of Linea di Eleganza on Fitz Roy and being kidnapped in kyrgzistan

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By J Q
Dec 24, 2012
Me again!
Based on our nonsensically retarded discussion of the term "best" as it applies to "climbing", it is no wonder why we like to beat each other in the head with opinions dressed up as ethics and facts.


I think my dog is the best climber. He never cheats, uses aid, or is in any way ethically dubious. He is always having a good time, is never scared, always brave, always solos only for himself and never for his sponsors. He doesn't hang on fixed gear ever, never sprays, never sandbags or over grades, he always offers his own humble opinion. Who gives a shit if he only scrambles 5.2 and is basically incompetent at difficult climbing?

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Dec 24, 2012
El Chorro
superkick wrote:
a 5.14a trad is more impressive than a 5.15c sport imo.


I agree. The last 14a trad route I sent was way harder than the last 5.15 sport route I sent. 5.15 sport isn't all that hard. You just have to build up your fitness level and work the route into submission.

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By bearbreeder
Dec 24, 2012
does it matter? ...

worry about how hard YOU can climb an be the best that YOU can be ...

rather than MPing about 5.14 trad or 5.15 sport or V16 boulders that youll never be able to do

;)

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By USBRIT
From Cumbria.UK
Dec 24, 2012
I see lots of mention of Fred Beckey having the most First Ascents of any other climber .Does anyone really know how many?.If they were recorded it should not be a problem to figure out> I have seen other climbers claim over 2000..maybe sport climbs? .. but thats a lot to beat ....At the moment I would go for Ueli Steck

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By csproul
From Davis, CA
Dec 24, 2012
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the backgrou...
Scott M. McNamara wrote:
I think Jeff Lowe said it best: "The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun." Edit: I wrongly attributed this guote to Jeff Lowe. It was Alex Lowe who said: The best climber in the world is the one that has the most fun. Alex Lowe

That quote makes me throw up in my mouth a little every time I hear it...and I think that Alex Lowe probably would too if he knew how often it is used and misused.

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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Dec 24, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
superkick wrote:
Fred Beckey? He has more FAs than prob anyone alive.. (or dead?)

I think you are thinking of Harvey Carter, but Fred is no Slouch.

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By Miike
From MA/CT border
Dec 24, 2012
my foot
chufftard wrote:
Ken Nichols is the best climber in the world BC of his ethics.


amen.

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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Dec 24, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
Jonhy Q wrote:
Based on our nonsensically retarded discussion of the term "best" as it applies to "climbing", it is no wonder why we like to beat each other in the head with opinions dressed up as ethics and facts.

Perhaps the question is: "What climber would you most want to be?" But then I'd have to know more about the climber than what he is climbing.
Jonhy Q wrote:
I think my dog is the best climber. He never cheats, uses aid, or is in any way ethically dubious. He is always having a good time, is never scared, always brave, always solos only for himself and never for his sponsors. He doesn't hang on fixed gear ever, never sprays, never sandbags or over grades, he always offers his own humble opinion. Who gives a shit if he only scrambles 5.2 and is basically incompetent at difficult climbing?

He eats other dogs' poop, and 'kitty crunchies' are a special treat.
Wouldn't want to be him. He's out of the running.

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By JMo
From Tucson, AZ
Dec 24, 2012
vertebrae roof
1- lame hero worship thread
2- honnold. He's my hero

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By jon weekley
From Denver, Co
Dec 24, 2012
avocado gully
I'm not sure anyone could touch Steve House's game in recent years.

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By Scott O
From California
Dec 24, 2012
Batman Pinnacle
csproul wrote:
That quote makes me throw up in my mouth a little every time I hear it...and I think that Alex Lowe probably would too if he knew how often it is used and misused.

What is the context behind it?

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By brett bloxom
From Bishop, California
Dec 24, 2012
lower saddle, GTNP
Jared Ogden is a pretty damn good all around climber. 5.13 big walls, hard hard aid, and some gnarly ice and mixed climbing.

I would agree with several of you about Dave Macleod topping the list for best all arounder though. Not many people who climb hard trad, ice and mixed can boulder v15.

I hope Adam Ondra branches out a bit in the future. It would be awesome to see what he could do on climbs like the Dawn Wall

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By USBRIT
From Cumbria.UK
Dec 24, 2012
Tony B wrote:
I think you are thinking of Harvey Carter, but Fred is no Slouch.

Yes I have seen the same suggestions that Harvey is up there.... So any idea as to Harveys count? .. I think most are recorded .

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By SW Marlatt
From Arvada, CO
Dec 24, 2012
wcp
"Chi-Ch'ang returned to his province. On a river-bank he found a
perfectly smooth pebble, adorned by lichen which could hardly be
seen. He placed it near to the window of his room, sat down at
the other end and, day after day, practiced looking. Two weeks
later, he could see the lichen quite clearly. Soon, it began to
look larger. After three months had passed, it seemed in
Chi-Ch'ang's eyes as large as a flower. Its slightest detail was
familiar to him. He spoke to the other members of the family of
the astonishing complexity of the leaves of the lichen, admiration
filling his voice. The seasons passed. Chi-Ch'ang hardly
noticed, if at all. The occasions on which he left his room were
rare. Each day his wife cleaned the pebble, lest a speck of dust
should settle on it and disturb his contemplation. After three
years, the lichen seemed to him as large as a tree. For the first
time, Chi-Ch'ang diverted his gaze from it to the pebble. Its
dimensions seemed those of an enormous block. He rushed out of
the house: horses seemed as big as mountains, pigs the size of
hills; chickens looked like castle towers. Chi-Ch'ang went then
to the climbing school where he had originally trained, and came
upon a smooth stretch of rock that no one had ever climbed. The
slightest roughness on its surface seemed to Chi-Ch'ang on that
occasion to take on the size of a considerable hold. He climbed
it easily. Without waiting any longer, he returned to Wei-Fei.
This time, the master had to admit that his pupil had succeeded."

-from "The Greatest Climber in the World", Bernard Amy (Mountain 74; The Games Climbers Play"; dharmaquest.com/writing-amy.ht...

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By Kirtis
From Rapid City, SD
Dec 24, 2012
Way up on pointy little devil
This is easy

Lynn Hill

First free ascent of the nose

Lynn possibly has the best technique of any climber out there

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By Josh Kornish
From Missoula, MT
Dec 24, 2012
Humboldt Bouldering
Christopher Sharma has better technique than Lynn Hill... just sayin'

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By beerdrinker
Dec 24, 2012
Probably some random Slovenian nobody's ever heard about.

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By 20 kN
Administrator
From Hawaii
Dec 25, 2012
chufftard wrote:
Ken Nichols is the best climber in the world BC of his ethics.

You mean the guy whom everyone wants to kill? Last I read, he was legally banned from rock climbing in MA. I am not sure that has even happened before. Legally banned from climbing? You really have to fuck up to get a judge to order something like that. Is he even a climber?

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By Cultivating Mass
Dec 25, 2012
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
Between thinking about this bullshit and reading the Bible, I'll take the Bible-because the Bible is scientific fact and everything written so far here is speculative, hero-worshipping fiction that's destructive towards one of the most important skills in life: having focused attention on reality as it exists and therefore being able to rationally react to and adapt to it.

WAIT A MOMENT!

It's called irony. Merry Icksmuss.

Ryan Williams wrote:
I agree. The last 14a trad route I sent was way harder than the last 5.15 sport route I sent. 5.15 sport isn't all that hard. You just have to build up your fitness level and work the route into submission.


I am so gay for your effortless sarcasm amidst such piddlery. Tip of my hat to you, sir.

No one so far mentioned Bobbi Bensman's sweater puppets as being the hardest climbing bolt-on holds. What gives?

Is this MENSA meeting derailed yet? Pinklewinkle, quit lurking and napalm this mohfoh, sucka!

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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Dec 25, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Josh Kornish wrote:
Christopher Sharma has better technique than Lynn Hill... just sayin'


Maybe. He doesn't have her balls though. Just sayin' ;).

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By Mark Wyss
From Denver, CO
Dec 25, 2012
Mt. Baker
Somehow I doubt the best climbers in the world give two s*#ts about how hard they can boulder.

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