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Dec 24, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
a 5.14a trad is more impressive than a 5.15c sport imo. superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Dec 24, 2012
eureka ha
superkick wrote:
Fred Beckey? He has more FAs than prob anyone alive.. (or dead?)


agreed and also would like to mention Herb and Jan Conn, just for the sheer amount of badassery they had up until january of this year when Herb Passed away.
mozeman
Joined Dec 17, 2010
90 points
Dec 24, 2012
Gunking
superkick wrote:
a 5.14a trad is more impressive than a 5.15c sport imo.


Single pitch? That seems sort of silly.
JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Joined Nov 21, 2009
673 points
Dec 24, 2012
eureka ha
Austin Baird wrote:
Tommy Caldwell? I don't know if he does much alpine, but I'm WAY more impressed at someone climbing 7 5.14 trad pitches on the Dawn Wall than any of the 5.15s that the hard sport climbers have done.



He does but it tends to go unnoticed because it is not as "impressive" as Cerro Torre or Speed ascents of the Eiger or the Sharks Fin....But he does in fact have multiple Alpine FA's including one in the Brooks Range of Alaska that he accomplished with Hayden Kennedy and Corey Rich earlier this year that was featured on "Flying Wild in Alaska".


EDIT: to add a FFA of Linea di Eleganza on Fitz Roy and being kidnapped in kyrgzistan
mozeman
Joined Dec 17, 2010
90 points
Dec 24, 2012
Me again!
Based on our nonsensically retarded discussion of the term "best" as it applies to "climbing", it is no wonder why we like to beat each other in the head with opinions dressed up as ethics and facts.


I think my dog is the best climber. He never cheats, uses aid, or is in any way ethically dubious. He is always having a good time, is never scared, always brave, always solos only for himself and never for his sponsors. He doesn't hang on fixed gear ever, never sprays, never sandbags or over grades, he always offers his own humble opinion. Who gives a shit if he only scrambles 5.2 and is basically incompetent at difficult climbing?
J Q
Joined Mar 11, 2012
58 points
Administrator
Dec 24, 2012
El Chorro
superkick wrote:
a 5.14a trad is more impressive than a 5.15c sport imo.


I agree. The last 14a trad route I sent was way harder than the last 5.15 sport route I sent. 5.15 sport isn't all that hard. You just have to build up your fitness level and work the route into submission.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Dec 24, 2012
does it matter? ...

worry about how hard YOU can climb an be the best that YOU can be ...

rather than MPing about 5.14 trad or 5.15 sport or V16 boulders that youll never be able to do

;)
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
2,022 points
Dec 24, 2012
 P.Ross on the FA Girdle/Traverse  of Castleton To...
I see lots of mention of Fred Beckey having the most First Ascents of any other climber .Does anyone really know how many?.If they were recorded it should not be a problem to figure out> I have seen other climbers claim over 2000..maybe sport climbs? .. but thats a lot to beat ....At the moment I would go for Ueli Steck USBRIT
From Keswick Cumbria.UK
Joined Apr 9, 2001
17,391 points
Dec 24, 2012
Cold day at Smug's
Scott M. McNamara wrote:
I think Jeff Lowe said it best: "The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun." Edit: I wrongly attributed this guote to Jeff Lowe. It was Alex Lowe who said: The best climber in the world is the one that has the most fun. Alex Lowe

That quote makes me throw up in my mouth a little every time I hear it...and I think that Alex Lowe probably would too if he knew how often it is used and misused.
csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
214 points
Dec 24, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
superkick wrote:
Fred Beckey? He has more FAs than prob anyone alive.. (or dead?)

I think you are thinking of Harvey Carter, but Fred is no Slouch.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,501 points
Dec 24, 2012
the man was smart
chufftard wrote:
Ken Nichols is the best climber in the world BC of his ethics.


amen.
T Roper
From VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Joined Mar 31, 2006
1,055 points
Dec 24, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
Jonhy Q wrote:
Based on our nonsensically retarded discussion of the term "best" as it applies to "climbing", it is no wonder why we like to beat each other in the head with opinions dressed up as ethics and facts.

Perhaps the question is: "What climber would you most want to be?" But then I'd have to know more about the climber than what he is climbing.
Jonhy Q wrote:
I think my dog is the best climber. He never cheats, uses aid, or is in any way ethically dubious. He is always having a good time, is never scared, always brave, always solos only for himself and never for his sponsors. He doesn't hang on fixed gear ever, never sprays, never sandbags or over grades, he always offers his own humble opinion. Who gives a shit if he only scrambles 5.2 and is basically incompetent at difficult climbing?

He eats other dogs' poop, and 'kitty crunchies' are a special treat.
Wouldn't want to be him. He's out of the running.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,501 points
Dec 24, 2012
vertebrae roof
1- lame hero worship thread
2- honnold. He's my hero
JMo
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jan 12, 2009
1,007 points
Dec 24, 2012
avocado gully
I'm not sure anyone could touch Steve House's game in recent years. jon weekley
From Denver, Co
Joined May 22, 2010
191 points
Dec 24, 2012
Batman Pinnacle
csproul wrote:
That quote makes me throw up in my mouth a little every time I hear it...and I think that Alex Lowe probably would too if he knew how often it is used and misused.

What is the context behind it?
Scott O
From California
Joined Mar 30, 2010
26 points
Dec 24, 2012
lower saddle, GTNP
Jared Ogden is a pretty damn good all around climber. 5.13 big walls, hard hard aid, and some gnarly ice and mixed climbing.

I would agree with several of you about Dave Macleod topping the list for best all arounder though. Not many people who climb hard trad, ice and mixed can boulder v15.

I hope Adam Ondra branches out a bit in the future. It would be awesome to see what he could do on climbs like the Dawn Wall
brett bloxom
From Bishop, California
Joined Jun 25, 2010
343 points
Dec 24, 2012
 P.Ross on the FA Girdle/Traverse  of Castleton To...
Tony B wrote:
I think you are thinking of Harvey Carter, but Fred is no Slouch.

Yes I have seen the same suggestions that Harvey is up there.... So any idea as to Harveys count? .. I think most are recorded .
USBRIT
From Keswick Cumbria.UK
Joined Apr 9, 2001
17,391 points
Dec 24, 2012
wcp
"Chi-Ch'ang returned to his province. On a river-bank he found a
perfectly smooth pebble, adorned by lichen which could hardly be
seen. He placed it near to the window of his room, sat down at
the other end and, day after day, practiced looking. Two weeks
later, he could see the lichen quite clearly. Soon, it began to
look larger. After three months had passed, it seemed in
Chi-Ch'ang's eyes as large as a flower. Its slightest detail was
familiar to him. He spoke to the other members of the family of
the astonishing complexity of the leaves of the lichen, admiration
filling his voice. The seasons passed. Chi-Ch'ang hardly
noticed, if at all. The occasions on which he left his room were
rare. Each day his wife cleaned the pebble, lest a speck of dust
should settle on it and disturb his contemplation. After three
years, the lichen seemed to him as large as a tree. For the first
time, Chi-Ch'ang diverted his gaze from it to the pebble. Its
dimensions seemed those of an enormous block. He rushed out of
the house: horses seemed as big as mountains, pigs the size of
hills; chickens looked like castle towers. Chi-Ch'ang went then
to the climbing school where he had originally trained, and came
upon a smooth stretch of rock that no one had ever climbed. The
slightest roughness on its surface seemed to Chi-Ch'ang on that
occasion to take on the size of a considerable hold. He climbed
it easily. Without waiting any longer, he returned to Wei-Fei.
This time, the master had to admit that his pupil had succeeded."

-from "The Greatest Climber in the World", Bernard Amy (Mountain 74; The Games Climbers Play"; dharmaquest.com/writing-amy.ht...
SW Marlatt
From Arvada, CO
Joined Feb 8, 2006
56 points
Dec 24, 2012
Way up on pointy little devil
This is easy

Lynn Hill

First free ascent of the nose

Lynn possibly has the best technique of any climber out there
Kirtis
From Rapid City, SD
Joined Mar 27, 2011
260 points
Dec 24, 2012
Humboldt Bouldering
Christopher Sharma has better technique than Lynn Hill... just sayin' Josh Kornish
From Missoula, MT
Joined Sep 16, 2009
513 points
Dec 24, 2012
Probably some random Slovenian nobody's ever heard about. JFA
Joined Jul 7, 2006
409 points
Administrator
Dec 25, 2012
chufftard wrote:
Ken Nichols is the best climber in the world BC of his ethics.

You mean the guy whom everyone wants to kill? Last I read, he was legally banned from rock climbing in MA. I am not sure that has even happened before. Legally banned from climbing? You really have to fuck up to get a judge to order something like that. Is he even a climber?
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
665 points
Dec 25, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Josh Kornish wrote:
Christopher Sharma has better technique than Lynn Hill... just sayin'


Maybe. He doesn't have her balls though. Just sayin' ;).
Colonel Mustard
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,379 points
Dec 25, 2012
Mt. Baker
Somehow I doubt the best climbers in the world give two s*#ts about how hard they can boulder. Mark Wyss
From Denver, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
250 points
Dec 25, 2012
Half dome Cables
Austin Baird wrote:
Tommy Caldwell? I don't know if he does much alpine, but I'm WAY more impressed at someone climbing 7 5.14 trad pitches on the Dawn Wall than any of the 5.15s that the hard sport climbers have done.


agreed
Jan Tarculas
From Riverside, Ca
Joined Mar 6, 2010
802 points


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