|Crazy Horse Buttress
|Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>|
A fun route with powerful climbing. The crux is down low where the climbing is more sideways than vertical. This may feel easier than graded to the master of traverses, but may be harder to those not willing to pull down hard and move fast. The grade is somewhere between 11b and 11d and bound to feel quite subjective.
Get s tick clip or a spot and clip the first bolt, heading up and right through horizontal slashes in the rock. The holds are not huge, but they are quite adequate. At the 3rd slash clip the second bolt and head directly up past a reachy crux to a very positive jug and another clip. Work out technical feet to get established above the third bolt, then cruise on up on easier but fun terrain to a 2 bolt anchor. This is one of the most interesting climbs in the wall and while not the best on its own merit, will feel like a break from the other routes there, which are more similar in character.
About 1/2 way across the wall from left to right there is a bolted line with a series of 3 horizontal slashes between the first and second bolts, this is The Beehouse (11c). Just to the right is the shallow and obtuse bolted dihedral, Blood Love and Steel (11b).
A dozen bolts to an 2 bolt and chain anchor.
Looking up the nose of the Crazy Horse
Climbing obvious the lush jungles of the Mae on va...